LW Mountain Brushed Oak: Oak Mocha-Heavy Brush 3/4" x 4 15/16" Solid Hardwood LWSBMOCA
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L.W. Mountain  
Solid Wood Installation Instructions

These instructions are a guide to installing wood floors.  They are to compliment other resources you need to look at before attempting to install your own hardwood floor.  L.W. Mountain does not guarantee that you will be able to install your wood floor by yourself.  It all depends on your experience levels with the materials and the tools needed to complete installation.

Inspect the job carefully before you begin the installation.  Some conditions require specific installation methods.  A level, flat, clean, dry and firm subfloor is always necessary.

Climate
It is required that wood be delivered to the job site a minimum of 48 hours prior to installation to normal living conditions.  (Approx. 22° C, 72° F and a relative humidity of 40 - 60%, depending on the region).
The customer is responsible for maintaining normal humidity conditions (40 - 60%) within the home throughout the year.  L.W. Mountain is not responsible for environmental conditions that cause excessive expansion and contraction.
Using a moisture meter, test the (plywood) subfloor for moisture content.  Moisture content of the subfloor should be 6 - 12% depending on your area.  It is imperative that the subfloor not be +/-4% different than the new hardwood floor that you are about to install.

Appropriate Subfloors
  1. Preferred Subfloor
    1. 3/4 inch plywood in 4 x 8 foot sheets
    2. 3/4 inch OSB in 4 x 8 foot sheets
  2. Existing wood floors
  3. Sheet vinyl or resilient tile as long as it is above one of the above subfloors
  4. Concrete slabs require a screed system for any nail down installation.  Recommended installation would be floating installation of engineered floor over a poly liner and foam pad.
Subfloor Preparation
  1. Subfloors must be cleaned.  This can be scraping or sanding the floor to remove all foreign materials.
  2. Subfloors must be flat.  1/4 inch in 10 feet.  Sand all seams and high spots. 
  3. Subfloors must be free of loose areas and squeaks before installation can start.  Renail or screw down sections that are loose or squeak.  Replace any subfloor that is damaged.
  4. The subfloor must be dry before you begin your installation.
Grades and Floors
 
If the soil surrounding a structure is 3 inches or more above the floor of any level, consider that level below grade.  This includes walk-out basements.  In addition, the surrounding soil should be sloped away from the structure.
  • Above Grade - Engineered, Solid Strip and Solid Plank floors can be installed
  • On Grade - Engineered, Solid Strip and Solid Plank floors can be installed.  L.W. Mountain does not recommend glue down of solid strip or solid plank installation on concrete slab.
  • Below Grade - Engineered floors can be installed.  Solid strip and plank should not be installed below grade.
  • Concrete slabs on grade or above require a screed system with a minimum 3/4 inch plywood on top of subfloor material for nail/staple down installation.
INSTALLATION

A.  Before installing wood flooring, place an approved vapor retarder.  Some examples of acceptable vapor retarders over wood subfloors include:
  1. An asphalt laminated paper meeting UU-B-790a, Grade B, Type 1, Style 1a.
  2. Asphalt-saturated kraft paper of #15 or #30 felt that meets ASTM standard D-4869 or UU-B-790, Grade D
  3. Red Rosin Paper
B.  Unfinished and factory finished solid plank should be installed perpendicular to joists or on a diagonal for any single layer subfloor (exceptions: Over diagonal, solid subfloor boards, install perpendicular to joists or subfloor direction).
C.  Wall Line Layout

1.  Choose a starting wall according to the most aesthetically or architecturally important elements in the room, taking into consideration fireplaces, doors, cabinets and transitions, as well as the squareness of the room.  The starting wall will often be the longest unbroken wall in the room.
2.  Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall, allowing a 3/4 inch expansion space between the starting wall and the edge of the first strip or plank run.
3.  As a general rule, a 3/4 inch expansion space must be left around the perimeter and at all vertical obstructions.
4.  Random-width plank is laid out with alternating courses varying by widths.  Start with the widest board, then the next width, etc., and repeat the pattern.
5.  Lay one row of strip or plank along the entire length of the working line.
6.  Top-nail and blind-nail the first row (hand-nail if necessary), using appropriate fasteners.  Denser species may require pre-drilling.  Each succeeding row should be blind-nailed with the nailing machine whenever possible.  At the finishing wall and other obstructions, it may be necessary to blind-nail by hand until top nailing is required.
7.  Racking rule of thumb:  Stagger end joints in adjacent rows at least three times the width of the boards, as product allows.  Avoid H-joints.
8.  To minimize expansion on floors wider than 20 feet, more or less spacing between rows may be needed, depending on geographical area, interior climate control, and time of the year.
9.  Where spacing is required:  use a washer or removable spacer to leave additional space every few rows and/or start in center of room and work out to both sides.  Do not use spacers that may cause damage on factory-finished products.
10.  Nailing:  Blind-nail through the tongue using 1 1/2 inch to 2 inch fasteners.  Use 1 1/2 inch fasteners with nominal 3/4 inch plywood subfloor direct to concrete slab.  Face-nail boards where needed using 6d-8d casing or finish nails.  Fasteners should be spaced every 6 - 8 inches on blind-nailing, or every 10 - 12 inches on face-nailing.
11.  Blind-nail and face-nail, as necessary, to complete the final rows.

Remember that all walls and other vertical structures in the room must have a 3/4 inch expansion space left between it and the floor.  If your drywall stops at least 3/4" above the floor, the thickness of the drywall can be considered part of the 3/4" expansion space requirement.
  • Once the floor has been completed the base and the quarter round can be reinstalled into the room.  This will cover the expansion gaps left between the wall and the floor.
  • Sweep or vacuum the floor using a soft brush attachment.
  • Finish by cleaning the floor with an approved hardwood floor cleaner.
  • Enjoy your new hardwood floor.
About Trims and Transitions 

There is a variety of trims and transitions to accent a floor by covering expansion gaps or transitioning from one flooring surface to another.  Before completing your floor it is important to know what trim pieces you will need for your floor.

  • T-Mold - The molding is used mostly between tiled surfaces and wood floors.  Also used for connecting to existing wood floors.
  • Overlap Reducer - Used mostly with floating floors to other floor coverings with lower vertical heights.  Also used to transition carpet and floating floors.
  • Square Nose Reducer - Used to transition in thickness from wood floor down to thinner surface
  • Nosing - Also called Stair Nosing, Bull Nose, Stairwell Trim, Landing Tread.  Thickness same as flooring.  Used to created finished edge on top step, around stairwell, sunken living room, etc.
Moldings must always be nailed to the wall or subfloor, never to the hardwood flooring.

Additional Information

Waste Factor
Additional square footage ordered for an installation is commonly referred to as a waste factor.  During installation, boards are cut to specifically fit your floor.  Once boards are cut, the remainder is typically unable to be used elsewhere in your floor.  In addition, some boards may not be suitable for installation because of milling or color preferences which means it becomes waste.  Finally, unfortunate damage during the life of your floor may call for replacing a board, and having spare flooring from the same stock can help to keep your floor's appearance.  The standard in the flooring industry is to order five to ten percent of additional flooring to cover cuts and other waste.

L.W. MOUNTAIN Hardwood Floors has the following limited warranties

1.  Lifetime structural warranty
2.  25 Year finish wear-through warranty
This limited warranty is made subject to the following conditions:
  • The flooring must be used only indoors in residential areas
  • The surface wear must not have occurred as a result of incorrect maintenance or accidents such as damage caused by scratching, impact and cutting
  • The surface wear must be readily visible (approximately 10% of the installed floor).  Gloss reduction is not considered surface wear.
  • LWM warrants its products are free from manufacturing defects in lamination, milling and assembly for as long as you own it.  LWM also warrants that its products will not buckle, cup or warp when properly installed and normal humidity in the home (40% - 60%) is maintained according to LWM recommended procedures.
  • Wood is a natural product, variations in its grain pattern, color and/or texture are normal and are not considered defects and no warranty shall apply to those.  The warranty will not apply to the natural color changes, which occur in wood over time.
WARRANTY EXCLUSIONS
LWM warranties do not cover indentations, scratches, or damages caused by negligence, exposure to extreme heat, dryness, or water saturation, accidents, abuse, misuse, indentations from stiletto heels, stains as a result of chemical or industrial products, improper installation and maintenance, insufficient protection or improper alterations of the original manufactured product.
This writing is the complete and exclusive statement of the warranty and is in lieu of all other express and/or implied warranties.  LWM assumes no liability for incidental or consequential damages.  This warranty gives you implied warranties.  LWM assumes no liability for incidental or consequential damages.  This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights that vary from state to state.  The sole remedy provided herein is the repair or replacement of defective product.
PREVENTIVE CARE
 
Use rugs inside and outside entrances to prevent sand and abrasives from being tracked onto floor.  Use soft woven rugs.  Clean or replace rugs as needed.  
Apply felt pads on all furniture legs to ease movement and prevent scratches.  When moving furniture or appliances, use caution to avoid scratching, indentations or gouging.  
Use large soft polyurethane or rubber casters versus narrow rigid plastic ones.
Maintain relative humidity level between 40% - 60% for your good health, your wood floor and furnishings.  In high humidity, the use of air conditioners or dehumidifiers will control the environment.  During dry periods, use a humidifier to control shrinkage.
Stiletto heels and spiked sport shoes are not recommended on any wood flooring.
MAINTENANCE
 
Wipe up spills quickly to protect wood from excess liquid.
Sweep or vacuum your floor regularly to prevent dirt, dust and abrasives that can scratch or dull its finish.
NOTE:  Vacuum only with a hard floor attachment.  A revolving beater bar brush can hold dirt which can damage the finish.
Clean your floor as needed with any wood floor cleaner.
NO WAXES, POLISHES, OIL BASED DETERGENTS OR ABRASIVE LEANERS SUCH AS STEEL WOOL CLEANERS.
Spray a light mist onto the floor.  Mop floor in a back-and-forth motion in the same direction as strips for best results.
Never pour water or liquid cleaner directly onto floor surface.
FLOOR CARE TIPS
 
Larger pets should have their claws trimmed to avoid scratching floors.
For more difficult stains, dampen a cloth with mineral spirits and clean mess.
Minor dents or scratches; use a matching wood filler available at your local hardware store.
Large scratches or damage, consult a professional.
Changes in wood color over time are due to the natural process of wood aging and not to the yellowing of the finish.
Direct sunlight will increase this phenomenon.  UV protective film applied on windows can help to slow the process in addition to your energy savings.