Bruce Hardwood Flooring by Armstrong Manchester Strip: Saddle 3/4" x 2 1/4" Solid Red Oak Hardwood C217

• The owner/installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality.  Inspection of all flooring should be done prior to installation.  Carefully examine flooring for color, finish and quality before installing it.  If material is not acceptable, do not install it.  Contact the seller immediately.
• Prior to installation of any hardwood flooring product, the owner/installer must determine that the job-site environment and the sub-surfaces involved meet or exceed all applicable standards.  Recommendations of the construction and materials industries, as well as local codes, must be followed.  These instructions recommend that the construction and subfloor be clean, dry, stiff, structurally sound and flat.  The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure resulting from, or associated with, subfloor and substrates or job-site environmental deficiencies.
• Prior to installation, the owner/installer has final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and factory finish.  The installer must use reasonable selectivity and holdout or cut off pieces with deficiencies, whatever the cause.  Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture or factory finish, the installer should not use the piece.
• Use of stain, filler or putty stick for touch-up and appropriate products for correcting subfloor voids is accepted as part of normal installation procedures.

• The building should be enclosed with all outside doors and windows in place.  All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other "wet" work should be thoroughly dry.  The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed, except for the final coat on the base molding.  When possible, delay installation of base molding until flooring installation is complete.  Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated.
• Exterior grading should be complete with surface drainage, offering a minimum drop of 3" in 10' (7.6 cm in 3.05 m), to direct flow of water away from the structure.  All gutters and downspouts should be in place.
• Solid hardwood flooring may be installed on- or above- grade level.  Do not install in full bathrooms.  Installation of a suitable subfloor is required over concrete.
• Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 18" (46 cm) from the ground to the underside of the joists.  A ground cover of 6-20 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped 6" (15 cm) and sealed with moisture resistant tape.  The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of 1.5% of the crawl space square footage.  These vents should be properly located to foster cross ventilation.  Where necessary, local regulations prevail.
• Permanent air conditioning and heating systems should be in place and operational.  The installation site should have a consistent room temperature of 60-75º F (16-24° C) and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior to and during installation and until occupied.

• CLEAN - Subfloor must be free of wax, paint, oil, sealers, adhesives and other debris.
• LEVEL/FLAT - Within 3/16' in 10' (5 mm in 3 m) and/or 1/8" in 6' (3 mm in 2 m).  Sand high areas or joists.  Flatten low spots with a maximum 6 layers of 15# builders felt, plywood or shims (not leveling compounds).
• DRY - Check and document moisture content of the subfloor with the appropriate moisture test.  Install moisture retardant materials if needed or desired.  (See plank installation note.) Moisture retardant materials must meet minimum perm standards of 3>50 ASTM D4869-88, Type I or F.S. UU-B-790a. Type I, Grade D, Style 1a.  Most asphalt saturated papers, #15 felt or Grade D kraft paper meet this perm rating.  Common brown kraft paper and red rosin generally do not qualify as vapor retarders.  Concrete subfloor must be a minimum of 30 days old before testing begins.
• STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any areas that are loose or squeak.  Wood panels should exhibit and adequate fastening pattern, glued/screwed or nailed as system requires, using an acceptable nailing pattern.  Typical:  6" (15 cm) along bearing edges and 12" (31 cm) along intermediate supports.  Flatten any swollen edges as necessary.  Replace any water-damaged, swollen or delaminated subflooring or underlayments.

• Chalk line & chalk
• Recommended hardwood flooring cleaner
• Nail set
• Tape measure
• Hammer
• Electric power saw
• NIOSH-designated dust mask
• Electric drill and bits
• Compressor and hose w/ in-line regulator for pneumatic tools
• "Blind" fastening machine for 3/4" (19 mm) flooring (see note below)* w/1-1/2" or 2" (4-5 cm) fasteners
• Pneumatic finish nailer with 1-1/2" or 2" (4-5 cm) nails
• 6-8d finish nails
• Moisture meter (wood, concrete or both)
• Broom
• Hand saw or jamb saw
• Eye protection
• Transition and wall moldings
• Urethane construction adhesive for floors wider than 4" (10 cm)

• Plywood:  Must be minimum CDX grade (exposure 1) and meet US Voluntary Product Standard PS1-95 performance standard or Canadian performance standard CAN/CSA 0325-0-92.  The preferred thickness is 3/4" (19 mm) as a subfloor [minimum 5/8" (16 mm)].  When using an underlayment panel a minimum 3/8" (9.5 mm) thickness is recommended.
• Oriented Strand Board (OSB):  Conforming to US Voluntary Product Standard PS2-92 or Canadian performance standard CAN/CSA 0325-0-92 construction sheathing.  Check the underside of the panel for codes.  When used as a subfloor, the panels must be tongue and groove, and installed sealed side down.  Minimum thickness to be 23/32" (18 mm) thick when used as a subfloor or 3/8" (9.5 mm) as an underlayment.  Some board manufacturers' recommendations vary.

• Minimum 3/4" (19 mm) thick with a maximum width of 6" (15 cm) installed at a 45° angle to the floor joists.
• Group 1 dense softwood (Pine, Larch, Douglas Fir, etc.) No. 2 common, kiln dried with all board ends bearing on joists.

• Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter Meter:  Moisture readings should not exceed 4.5 on the upper scale. 

• Calcium Chloride Test (ASTM F 1869):  The maximum moisture transfer must not exceed 3 lbs./1000 ft² in 24 hrs. with this test.
• RH Levels in Concrete Using In-situ Probes (ASTM F 2170-02) should not exceed 75%

• Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
• When possible, preselect and set aside boards that blend best with all floor mounted moldings used to ensure a uniform final appearance.  Install these boards adjoining the moldings.
• Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards at least 4" - 6" (10-15 cm), when possible, in adjacent rows.  This will help ensure a more favorable overall appearance of the floor.
• Large spans exceeding 20' (6 m) in hardwood flooring width, in areas of high humidity, may require the addition of internal or field expansion.  This can be accomplished by using spacers, such as small washers, every 10 - 20 rows inserted above the tongue.  Remove the spacers after several adjoining rows have been fastened.  Do not leave spacers in for more than two hours.
• When installing products of uniform length, begin the rows with starter boards cut to various lengths.  Avoid staggering the rows uniformly to prevent stair-stepping.  Boards cut from the opposite end of the row may be used for the next starter boards.
• Always allow a minimum 3/4" (19 mm) expansion around all vertical obstructions.
• Always use a protective foot on the fastening machine to prevent mallet damage and edge bruising.

• Avoid striking the edge of prefinished products with the fastener's mallet.  Edge crushing can occur, causing unsightly cracks and splinters.  Use a protective foot attachment to prevent edge bruising and finish damage.
• Improper adapter plates and air pressure settings can cause severe damage to the hardwood flooring and reduce performance.  Always use an in-line regulator to control air pressure to the machine.  Set pressure at 70 - 75 PSI to begin with and adjust until proper fastener setting occurs.

• Undercut door casings and jambs.  Remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds.  These items can be replaced after installation.  All door casings and jambs should be undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts.
• Install the moisture retardant (if used) parallel to the flooring.  Overlap the rows 6" (15 cm). Overlap (top) should be on the same side as the groove of the flooring so that the hardwood will slide smoothly into place.  Staple the moisture retardant material as necessary to prevent excessive movement.

• Installation parallel to the longest wall is recommended for best visual effects; however, the floor should be installed perpendicular to the flooring joists unless the subfloor has been reinforced to reduce subfloor sagging.
• When possible, always begin layout or installation from the straightest wall, generally an outside wall.
• In at least two places at least 18" (46 cm) from the corner, measure out equal distance from the starting wall the face width of the starter board plus 1" (2.5 cm) (do not include the width of the tongue in this measurement).  Mark these points and snap a chalk line through them.  This measurement allows for the required 3/4" (19 mm) expansion and the width of the tongue.

• Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows.  For random and alternate width products use the widest plank for the first row.  Align tongue of first row on chalk line.  the groove should be facing the starting wall.
• Use a pneumatic finish nailer to face-nail the groove side 1/2" (13 mm) from the edge at 6" (15 cm) intervals and 1" - 3" (2.5 - 7.6 cm) from each end.  Then, blind nail using a finishing gun held at a 45° angle.  Nail down through the nailing "pocket" on top of the tongue every 6" - 8" (15 - 20 cm).
• If using finish nails, pre-drill the nail holes with a 1/32" (2 mm) bit approximately 1/2" (13 mm) from back (groove) edge, 1" - 3" (2.5 - 7.6 cm) from each end, and at 6" (15 cm) intervals.  Pre-drill at the same intervals at a 45° angle down through the nailing "pocket" on top of the tongue.  Face-nail the groove side where pre-drilled.  When complete, blind nail at a 45° angle through the tongue of the first row.  Fasten using 6 or 8d finish nails.  Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of the groove.  Avoid bruising the hardwood by using a nail set to countersink the nails.
• Continue blink-nailing using this method with the following rows until blind nailer can be used.

• Snap a chalk line down the center of the room.
• Install a sacrificial row that extends the entire length of the room on the centerline.
• Install three rows of flooring.
• Remove the sacrificial row and insert wood glue in the groove followed by a slip tongue (spline) in the exposed groove.
• Always glue and nail the slip tongue in place.
• Installation can now continue from the center in both directions.

• "Dry" lay (rack) materials to cover approximately two-thirds of the room.  Begin dry laying (racking) approximately 6" (15 cm) from the edge of the previously installed rows.  Avoid pulling boards too tightly together on the sides, as they must move freely when fastening begins.
• Do not cut final board until row has been installed.  Cutting the board in advance may result in a board that is too short.
• Visually inspect flooring, setting aside boards that need to have natural character flaws cut out.
• Use these boards for the starting and finishing rows after objectionable characteristics have been removed.

Fastener Schedule

• Use the blind nailer to fasten a sacrificial board to the floor.  Check for surface damage, air pressure setting, tongue damage, etc., before proceeding.  Make all adjustments and corrections before installation begins.  Once proper adjustments have been made, remove and destroy the board.
• Begin installation with several rows at a time.  Use the fastener schedule for proper spacing based on board width.  Fasten each board with a minimum of two fasteners 1" - 3" (2.5 - 7.6 cm) from the ends.  To ensure a more favorable overall appearance end-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered a minimum of 4" - 6" (10 - 15 cm) when possible.
• The last 1 - 2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with the stapler or brad nailer.  Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following the nailing pattern used for the first row.
• Rip final row to fit and face-nail.  If the final row is less than 1" (2.5 cm) in width, it should first be glued to the previous UNINSTALLED row and two joined units should be face-nailed as one.

• Remove all tape and clean the floor with the recommended hardwood flooring cleaner.
• Install or re-install any transition pieces, reducer strips, T-Moldings, thresholds, bases and/or quarter round moldings that may be needed.  These products are available pre-finished to blend with your flooring.  Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor.
• Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
• If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard.  Do not cover with plastic.
• Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner.  Advise them of the product name and code number of the flooring they purchased.
• To prevent surface damage, avoid rolling heavy furniture and appliances on the floor.  Use plywood, hardboard or appliance lifts if necessary.  Use protective castors/castor cups or felt pads on the legs of furniture to prevent damage to the flooring.

• Reducer Strip:  A teardrop-shaped molding used around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a transition between wood flooring and adjacent thinner floor coverings.  Fasten down with adhesive, small nails or double-faced tape.
• Threshold:  a molding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or existing thresholds to allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference.  Fasten to subfloor with adhesive and/or nails through the heel.  Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Stair Nosing:  A molding undercut for use as stair landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair steps.  Fasten down firmly with adhesive and nails or screws.  Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Quarter Round:  A molding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair steps.  Pre-drill and nail to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
• Combination Base and Shoe:  A molding used when a base is desired.  Used to cover expansion space between the floor and the wall.  Pre-drill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
• T-Molding:  A molding used as a transition piece from one rigid flooring to another of similar height or to gain expansion spaces.  Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding.  Additional rigid support may need to be added to the heel of the molding dependent upon the thickness of the goods covered.  Do not use this molding as a transition to carpet.

• Heating Season (Dry):  A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive shrinkage in hardwood floors due to low humidity levels.  Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
• Non-heating Season (Humid, Wet):  Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner, dehumidifier, or by turning on your heating system periodically during the summer months.  Avoid excessive exposure to water from tracking during periods of inclement weather.  Do not obstruct in any way the expansion joint around the perimeter of your floor.