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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS - ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
A. INTRODUCTION
PLEASE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE PROECEEDING WITH THE ACTUAL INSTALLATION.
To ensure you have sufficient material on hand, calculate the total area of the room and add 5% of material to allow for custom cutting.
SET UP AND SITE PREPARATION:
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Twenty four hours prior to installation, place the closed packages, flat, in the middle of the room, NEVER against a wall or in a corner. This allows the wood to acclimate to the environment it will be installed in.
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Do NOT open the cartons until you are ready to begin installation.
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Inspect each plank before installation. If you find any defects, DO NOT use the plank. Contact your supplier immediately. The manufacturer will not accept responsibility for any cost incurred when planks with visible defects have been installed.
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Flooring should not be delivered to the job until the building is structurally enclosed with exterior windows and doors and all "wet trade" work (painting, dry wall, tile work, etc.) has been completed, and the subfloor moisture content has been determined to meet the recommended level required for installation.
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Heating and cooling systems must be fully operational at least 14 days prior to flooring installation, maintaining a minimum room temperature of 60 degrees F.
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Gutters, down spouts and exterior grading should direct drainage away from the structures foundation.
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Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated. A 6 mil polyethylene (poly) film cover must cover the ground of all crawl spaces; seams must be overlapped and taped.
B. PRE INSTALLATION PLANNING REQUIREMENTS
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Decide the direction the flooring will be installed. Planks should be installed perpendicular to the flooring joists. Flooring will be accented best, if installed parallel to windows (if possible).
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The sub floor must be level or floor could flex. This could also cause squeaking and the locking system could weaken over time causing cracks or loose boards.
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Like all wood floors a floating (glue less) floor expands and contracts with seasonal changes. DO NOT put fasteners (nails, screws, etc.) through the floor or pinch the floor under doorways. This could cause the floor to pull apart or buckle because it is not allowed to float freely.
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Leave the 3/8" spacing around the perimeter of the room(s) and all vertical objects (columns, cabinets, stairs, etc.) during warm months the floor will expand. Without this clearance the floor could buckle.
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Pre plan the number of rows required to finish the installation (based on the width of the plank). The final row will normally be narrower and have to be ripped length wise. If possible the last row should be wider than 2". You may want to rip both the first and last row to balance the installation. If a row must be narrower than 2", it is recommended to use carpenters glue to secure the narrow boards to the adjoining full row.
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Remove any base, or shoe moldings and interior thresholds. These can be replaced after the floor has been installed. Undercut door jambs to allow for expansion.
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All wood floors require a relative humidity level between 35% - 55% to perform optimally without gapping, cupping, etc. A humidifier or dehumidifier may be required in some homes to achieve these humidity levels.
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To use putty to fill small gaps or correct minor defects should be considered normal in any hardwood installation. When using putty on a low gloss (sheen) finish, apply putty with a plastic putty knife and remove excess immediately with a soft cloth to prevent gloss up of finish.
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Install the planks in the direction of the longest wall or the same direction as the light falls. In areas as long as 30 feet (10m) or wider than 24 feet (8m), an expansion T-mold must be used to allow proper expansion.
IMPORTANT: Hardwood is a natural material and therefore no two planks are alike. This adds to its beauty. Some color and shade variation should be expected. Always work from several boxes at the same time and shuffle planks for the best appearance. Also, some wood species are sensitive to light. It is natural for their color to darken or soften over time. Periodically move area rugs and furniture to even and blend the change throughout the whole floor. NEVER INSTALL THIS FLOORING IN A FULL BATH OR IN OTHER DAMP AREAS SUCH AS SAUNAS.
C. PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
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To ensure full enjoyment from your floor and to extend its beauty for years to come, the following list of guidelines should be followed.
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Install floor protectors on furniture legs to protect against scratches and dents. These furniture pads should have no wrinkles and be made of soft, non staining material (i.e. felt pads)
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Do not drag or roll furniture or other heavy objects across the floor. Rollers from refrigerators, TV's, stereos, etc. will dent the floor. To prevent the denting first lay 1/2" plywood on the floor and roll the appliance or heavy furniture on the plywood.
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Avoid high heels or shoes with protruding nails. Some types of high heel shoes can severely damage the surface of any floor covering.
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Sweep and vacuum floor regularly.
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Avoid sand and grit build up. Use protective mats or rugs at doorways and areas of heavy wear.
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Never use latex or rubber backed mats or rugs; they will permanently stain the floor
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Place protective mats under chairs with wheels
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Use only recommended cleaning products from your dealer
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Never wet mop your floor. Never wax or use oil-based products on your floor.
TOOLS NEEDED:
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3/8" wood or plastic wedges
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6 mil polyethylene film (if needed)
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High quality carpenters glue (if needed)
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Foam underlayment
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Measuring tape
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Safety glasses
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Chalk line
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Square
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Circular or hand saw
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Pencil
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Jamb saw
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Wood chisel
GENERAL SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
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All subfloors must be flat to 3/16" per 8' radius. If subfloor prep is required, "high spots" should be sanded or ground down and "low spots" should be filled and levelled with a quality Portland based leveling compound. Do not sand surfaces such as vinyl or synthetic tiles that may contain asbestos. Dry sand may be used to fill "low spots" that are less than 1/4" in depth.
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All subfloors must be clean and free from debris.
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Nail or screw any loose areas to prevent squeaking. Subfloors should have a minimum deflection (vertical movement).
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This floor can be floated over any structurally sound, flat, dry subfloor
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Subfloor irregularities that cause the wood floor to develop movement or hollow spots between the subfloor and the wood flooring are NOT the result of manufacturing defects. No warranty applies.
SUBFLOOR MOISTURE REQUIREMENTS
for concrete subfloors: In any situation when test results indicate moisture exceeding the guideline for that test DO NOT INSTALL THE FLOORING. To insure the warranty will be valid document the method and results of test prior to installing.
CONCRETE TEST METHODS:
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Calcium/Chloride test (MAXIMUM 3 lbs or 2 lbs if over radiant heat)
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Tramex moisture meter (maximum reading of 4.5)
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Delmhorst G-40 moisture meter (reading of green/dry)
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Mat test (visual condensation)
WOODEN SUBFLOORS: Wood or plywood subfloors should not exceed 10% moisture content with a maximum moisture variance not to exceed 4% difference between the flooring and subfloor. (3% if over radiant heat)
RADIANT HEAT SUBFLOORS: In floor radiant heat systems can significantly alter product performance. Only products warranted for radiant heat should be used. Wood species approved for installation over radiant heat subfloors include Red Oak, Maple, Birch, Beech, American Cherry and American Walnut. Contact your dealer for a complete list of skus.
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Follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the heating system carefully and make sure the temperature at the surface of the subfloor does not exceed 72 degrees F. Hot or cold spots with in the system can alter floor performance and void the warranty.
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The heating system should be operational and running for a minimum of 14 days prior to installation of the flooring. Three to four days prior to installation the system should be reduced or shut off. At the time of installation the subfloor should be 64 - 68 degrees F.
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Radiant heat setting should be adjusted gradually (5 degrees F at a time and not exceeding 72 degrees) and should never vary more than 15 degrees seasonally.
D. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOR A FLOATING FLOOR: FOR GLUE DOWN INSTRUCTIONS CONTACT YOUR DEALER.
GENERAL: Each flooring carton may have up to two boards that are pre cut and should be used to start or end a row.
FLOATING INSTALLATION:
1. Roll out foam underlayment (follow instructions inside packaging). If you are using an underlayment that does not have a vapor barrier attached; loose lay 6 mil poly sheeting with the seams overlapped 8", taped with clear packaging tape and taped up the wall 4" around the perimeter of the room. This can be trimmed off after moldings are installed. Then roll out underlayment butting edges. For installations over a plywood subfloor it is not necessary to use an underlayment with a vapor barrier attached or poly sheeting.
2. Begin laying the floor in the left corner of the room. ALL BOARDS SHOULD BE INSTALLED WITH THE TONGUE SIDE FACING THE WALL. (See figure 1)
3. Begin installing the first row by laying a board down flat on the subfloor (figure 4). Align the end of the second board with the first and snap end locking system together by simply pushing it straight down on top of first board. Repeat this step to install the remaining boards in the first row. Cut the last board in the row to the necessary length or use an end board that was supplied in the carton. If leftover piece is 12" or longer, use it to begin the next row, or use start board supplied in the carton. (Figures 2 & 3).
4. Insert spacers between the first row and the walls in order to maintain the appropriate amount of expansion space around the perimeter of the floor.
5. You can not force the boards together. If boards are not lying flat, they were not aligned evenly during engagement. Start this step over. Insure the edges of both boards meet evenly by applying equal pressure while rotating the board down.
6. Continue installing the second row and cut the last board to size just as you did in the first.
7. Install the third row in the same manner as described above. Once three rows have been installed, re-check the spacers to ensure they are tight against the wall. If necessary adjust the floor to ensure the installation is square.
8. When working under doorjambs or toe kicks of cabinets, there will not be enough clearance to achieve the 45 degree angle required to engage the sides. It will be necessary to cut away the tongue portion of the sides using a wood chisel and glue the boards together using a high quality carpenters glue.
9. The boards in the last row will need to be cut to the necessary width. Remember to allow the appropriate expansion space between the last row and any vertical surface it adjoins.
10. To mark the last row correctly place the last board on top of the last row installed with approximately a 3/8" offset, take a scrap piece of flooring and remove the locking device (tongue) and use to mark the board to the correct width and contours of the wall.
11. After the flooring is completely installed, remove the spacers, install molding and thoroughly clean the floor. Never cover a newly installed floor with plastic; always use a breathable material such as craft paper or cardboard. If a vapor barrier has been used, attach the baseboard through the plastic membrane sticking up form the floor using finishing nails.
MOLDINGS: Do not fasten any moldings into the floor. This will prevent the floor from "floating" freely. The 3/8" expansion space must be maintained underneath the moldings. Finish the pipes with rosettes or silicone seal.
RESIDENTIAL LIMITED WARRANTY:
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The finish will not wear through in normal residential conditions with proper maintenance.
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Flooring will be free from manufacturing defects for as long as you own your home (original purchaser only). Manufacturing defects are improper milling, laminating, or assembly.
THIS LIMITED WARRANTY IS MADE SUBJECT TO THE FOLLOWING CONDITIONS:
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The flooring must be used only indoors in residential areas and installed and used in accordance with our installation procedures.
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The installation was done in compliance with the written instructions.
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No warranty coverage is provided for flooring that contains obvious defects of any kind that were installed nonetheless.
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The surface wear must not have occurred as a result of incorrect maintenance or accidents such as damage caused by scratching, impact, or cutting. It must be readily visible and be 10% or more of the floor. Gloss reduction is not considered wear through.
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Wood is a natural product; variations in its grain pattern, color and/or texture are normal and are not considered defects and no warranty shall apply to those. The warranty will not apply to the natural color changes which occur in wood over time due to light exposure.
WARRANTY EXCLUSIONS:
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Color match to other wood products such as moldings, stairs, cabinets.I
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Indentations, scratches, or damages caused by negligence, exposure to extreme heat, dryness, or water saturation (including but not limited to a leaky faucet, broken pipe and wet mopping), accidents, abuse, misuse, indentation from high heels or pet nails, pet stains, furniture rollers, stains as a result of chemical or industrial products, failure to follow all the manufacturers specific written installation and maintenance instructions, insufficient protection or improper alterations of the original product.
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This writing is the complete and exclusive statement of the warranty and is in lieu of all other express and/or statutory warranties. The manufacturer assumes no liability for incidental or consequential damages, so this exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights that vary from state to state. The sole remedy provided herein is the repair or replacement of the defective products. Labor for installation is not covered by this warranty.
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No installer, retailer, distributor, or agent has the authority to increase or alter the obligations or limitations of this warranty.
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Any and all disputes arising out of the purchase of this product or this warranty shall be subject to mandatory and binding arbitration in Wausau, Wisconsin, pursuant to the rules of the American Arbitration Association. Any jury trials are expressly waived.
Fig. 1 - First plank, first row. Tongue side against the wall; groove side facing out.
Fig. 2 - Second plank, first row. Place this plank tight to the short end of the first one.
Fig. 3 - Fold down with single action movement.
Fig. 4 - At the end of the first row, cut the board to fit the necessary length. If the left over piece is 12" or longer use it or pre-cut board that came with the flooring to start the next row. Insert 3/8" spacers.
Fig. 5 - Cut with a jig saw - hardwood turned up side down or with a hand saw with the hardwood visible.
Fig. 6 - Second row: stagger end joints of adjacent rows a minimum of 12". Once three rows have been installed re-check the spacers to make sure they are tight against the wall. Adjust to insure installation is square.
Fig. 7 - 8 - Second plank second row. Place the panel tight to the short end of the previous panel and fold down in a single action movement.
Fig. 9 - After 3 rows. Re-check the spacers to ensure they are tight against the wall. If necessary adjust the floor to ensure the installation is square.
Fig. 10 - Last row (and perhaps also first row). Allow proper expansion space against the wall or any vertical surface. The last row will need to be cut to the necessary width of 2" or wider. Cut the panels lengthwise and glue narrow boards to the adjoining full row.
DISASSEMBLING:
Your floor can very easily be disassembled, which enables replacement during installation and also during use.
(sliding sideways)
Fig. 11 - Separate the whole row by carefully lifting up and releasing the whole row. Fold up and release the whole longside.
Fig. 12 - Disassemble the panels by sliding horizontally.
SMALL PANEL WIDTHS: First and/or last row. Joining at short ends length cut panels, glue the joint with white PVAc D3 glue. (good carpenter glue)
LAST ROW OR UNDER CABINETS
Cut off the locking element with a chisel, put good quality carpenter white glue on the adjusted strip and push the planks horizontally together.
RADIATIOR PIPES
Drill the holes 3/4" larger than the diameter of the pipes.
