Broom, Electric Saw (carbide blade), Eye and Ear Protection, Glue, Hammer, Painter''s Tape, Pencil, Pull Bar, Straightedge (6 ft), Tape Measure, Utility Knife, Wall Spacers (1/4"), Wood Chisel.
• Now you can continue to add additional rows using the same method of assembly. Work on top of your start rows and pull the planks toward you to position them before locking them into place.
• Pull planks from 3 different cartons at a time to ensure random appearance. Use cut pieces from the end of each row as starting planks. Always stagger end joints a minimum of 12" and keep them random so as not to show a repeating pattern.
• All joints should have a tight fit with no gaps. Stop and reconnect if a joint is not tight or if all edges are not even with adjacent planks. These planks can be engaged and disengaged several times, if needed, to insure the correct installation
• When cutting the last row, place a full row of planks directly on top of the previous row of installed planks (keeping the tongue in the same direction as that of the installed planks). Use the full width of a scrap piece of plank and insert a 1/4" spacer between the wall and the scrap piece of plank. Place a pencil next to the edge and trace a line down the planks following the contour of the wall. Cut planks on the pencil line and then connect the last row.
10. Once you have assembled three or four start rows, you can slide these rows into position against the start wall of the room. Remember to allow for proper expansion spaces, and use the spacers to maintain those expansion areas along all walls and around any fixed objects within the flooring area.
As you finish the rows in rooms with long spans, continue to stay three or four planks ahead of the locked side seam position planks. Use the wood wedges to help maintain the raised, unlocked plank positions.
11. If the starting wall is uneven, the planks must be adapted to its contours. You can scribe the contour of the wall onto the first row of planks by using a ruler and a pencil to follow along the contour of the wall. Do not forget to allow for the minimum 1/4" expansion space from the wall. Disassemble the first row, cut the planks along the line you have drawn, and then reassemble. You must still use the spacers to maintain the expansion space along this wall.
12. To remove the first row for cutting, lift the planks a few inches and tap along the joint. Cut the planks as required. Re-connect all of the first row end seams and replace the first row by pressing the first row into place with the groove toward the edge of the planks that are already in position.
13. You may have to disassemble the flooring due to obstructions, etc. Just lift the row of planks a few inches and tap along the joint.
14. The released planks can then be pulled apart by sliding them out horizontally. Never bend connected planks downwards; this will damage the planks' locking ridges.
15. Measure and cut the planks in the last row to fit. Remember to allow for a minimum of 1/4" expansion space from the wall.
16. Use a full width scrap plank and 1/4" spacer to mark your cutting line on the last row.
17. In areas such as a doorjamb or cabinet kick base where planks cannot be angled to lock into place, use a wood chisel to remove the locking ridge from the bottom of the plank groove. Apply a 1/8" bead of tongue and groove adhesive to the bottom groove, and gently tap the plank into place using a pull bar and hammer. Next, apply painter's tape across this seam to hold the joint securely in place until the adhesive sets. Using a clean, soft, cloth, carefully clean any excess adhesive from the surface of the planks.
Molding and Transitions Installation
A complete line of trims and transition pieces are offered to finish your floor, including
T-Molding, Reducers, End Molding/Carpet Transitions, Wallbase, Quarter Round and Stairnosing.
• The transition pieces, (excluding Quarter Round and Wallbase) can be easily secured in place with the Molding Track which can be screwed, nailed or glued directly to the subfloor with silicone adhesive. The use of Molding Track provides a fast, secure transition installation and minimizes the use of screws or nails through the decorative surface of the transition piece.
• T-Molding is used when two level flooring surfaces meet, such as a doorway or a narrow archway. In a doorway, center the T-Molding under the space that the closed door occupies. Likewise, in an archway, the T-Molding should be centered. To install the T-Molding, first install the molding track by gluing, screwing or nailing it 1/4" from the edge of each adjoining flooring surface (equals about 1 1/8"). Push the T-Molding into the track, working from left to right.
• When laminate flooring meets a flooring surface that is lower, use a Reducer Strip. Leave 1/2" space between the finished floor and the front edge of the reducer. Install the Molding Track by gluing, screwing or nailing it 1/4" from the edge of the flooring. Push the reducer into the track, working from left to right.
• The End Molding/Carpet Transition works great when finishing the floor in areas that meet vertical objects and is also ideal for transitioning between your laminate flooring and carpet. To finish the flooring in areas that meet vertical objects such as exterior doors, sliding glass doors, tubs or shower basins, raised hearths or low sills, leave a 1" space between the floor and the vertical object. Install the Molding Track by gluing, screwing or nailing it 1/4" away from the flooring. Push the molding into the track, working from left to right.
• When transitioning from laminate flooring to carpet, leave a 1" space between the finished floor and the front edge of the carpet. Install the Molding Track by gluing or nailing it 1/4" away from the edge of the flooring. Push the molding into the track, working from left to right. Finish the carpet by tucking it between the molding and the tack strip.
• Note: In heavy traffic areas, use screw-type fasteners or nails to permanently secure the molding into the Molding Track.
• The Stairnosing is used to finish stair treads and risers, which have been fully adhered to the floor using a Shaw approved multipurpose flooring adhesive. Stop the flooring about 1 1/2" from the step's edge. Install the Molding Track by gluing, screwing or nailing it 3/4" away from the edge of the stair tread. Apply construction grade adhesive to the Stairnosing where the molding makes contact with the stair tread. Push the Stairnose into the track from left to right. You must use either screw type fasteners or nails through the face of the Stairnose to permanently secure it to the track. Place screws/nails into the Stairnose 2" from the end and 6" to 8" apart. (Note: riser piece should be in place under Stairnosing before screws or nails are used).
• To finish the perimeter of the room where the expansion space was left for the seasonal expansion and contraction of the flooring, remove spacers and install Wallbase and/or Quarter Round. Both of these moldings are installed by nailing them directly into the wall. Never allow nails or screws that are securing Wallbase or Quarter Round to enter into the laminate flooring or the expansion zone around the flooring perimeter, as it will prevent proper expansion and contraction of the flooring. You must pre-drill nail holes in both types of wall moldings before nailing, to eliminate any splitting. Use Shaw Color Coordinated Putty to fill the countersunk nail heads.
• Silicone sealant should be used in all expansion zones in bathrooms, near kitchen sinks, dishwashers and refrigerators with icemakers.
For any questions, call the Shaw Information Center at 1-800-441-7429.
Laminate Flooring Care & Maintenance Routine Maintenance
1. Use a damp cloth to blot up spills as soon as they happen. Never allow liquids to stand on your floor.
2. Use acetone/nail polish remover on a clean white cloth to clean tough spots such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, or tar. Wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove any remaining residue.
3. Regularly sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor with the hard floor attachment (not the beater bar) to prevent accumulation of dirt and grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish.
4. Periodically clean the floor with cleaning products made specifically for laminate floor care, such as Shaw's R2x® Hard Surface Cleaner.
5. Do not wash or wet mop the floor with soap, water, oil-soap detergent, or any other liquid cleaning material. This could cause swelling, warping, delamination, and joint-line separation and void the warranty.
6. Do not use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, or strong ammoniated or chlorinated type cleaners.
7. Do not use any type of buffing or polishing machine.
8. For spots such as candle wax or chewing gum, harden the spot with ice and then gently scrape with a plastic scraper such as a credit card. Be careful not to scratch the flooring surface. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.
9. A more frequent dust-mopping or vacuuming schedule may be required in very sandy areas such as a beach home.
1. Entry mats will help collect the dirt, sand, grit, and other substances such as oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer that might otherwise be tracked onto your floor.
2. To prevent slippage of area rugs, use an approved vinyl rug underlayment.
3. Use floor protectors and wide, load-bearing leg bases/ rollers to minimize the chance of indentations and scratches from heavy objects. As a rule, the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector.
4. To minimize the natural expansion and contraction of the wood, maintain a normal indoor relative humidity level between 35% and 65% throughout the year.
a. Heating season (Dry): A humidifier is recommended to prevent excess shrinkage due to low humidity levels. Wood stove and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
b. Non-Heating Season (Wet): By using an air conditioner, dehumidifier or periodically turning on your heat will help to maintain humidity levels during summer months.
5. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather.
6. Keep your pet's nails trimmed to prevent them from scratching your floor.
7. Never try to slide heavy objects across the floor.
8. A protective mat should be used under furniture or chairs with castors/wheels.
Minor Repair Instructions:
In the event that accidental damage occurs, minor scratches or dents can be repaired using a Flooring Touchup or Color-fill Kit. This special touchup kit contains a filler material that is color coordinated to the color of your floor. When Color-fill is used properly the repaired area is often invisible. The repaired area should hold up to foot traffic and wear just like the rest of your laminate flooring.
Glueless Laminate Board Replacement Repairs
1. Shaw glueless laminate may be assembled and disassembled several times.
2. Carefully disassembled glueless joints will retain their original locking integrity during re-assembly. New replacement plank(s) should be acclimated in the replacement area for at least 72 hours. This allows them to equalize to the conditions of the flooring in the room where the replacement(s) will take place.
3. To replace the damaged board(s), first remove baseboard, wall base, or Quarter Round as needed. Take the flooring apart one row at a time. Lift each row to detach, then separate the individual boards.
4. Be sure to stack the individual planks in the proper order for re-installation. This usually eliminates the need to cut planks for start or end of the row lengths.
5. For best visual results, replace the damaged board with a piece from the edge of the original installation.
6. Insert the properly acclimated new plank(s) along the outer edge of the original flooring installation during reassembly. This practice lessens the chance that the newer plank will stand out from the original installation.
7. Reinstall the baseboard, wall base, or quarter round, and the replacement/repair is complete.