Most manufacturers produce coordinating accessory pieces to use with your laminate flooring. These pieces, or moldings, serve a functional purpose between flooring transitions, and can also add a professional, finishing touch to your new floors.
Following is a brief overview of the transition pieces available for laminate flooring, plus guidelines on when and where they should be used.
Baby Thresholds: These transitions are perfect for filling in the space where laminate and carpet meet. Another place where baby thresholds are commonly used is next to fireplaces or sliding glass door tracks. Baby Thresholds may also be referred to as SquareNose or End Cap pieces.
Flush Stairnose: Stairnose transitions are used for stairs, step-downs or landings. These pieces are installed to lay flush, or even, with your laminate flooring.
Multi-Purpose Reducer: Reducer transitions are used to even out the height difference between adjoining floors, such as laminate meeting with vinyl or carpet. A Multi-Purpose Reducer can also be used in places where Wall Base or Quarter Round cannot, such as against fireplaces or sliding glass door tracks.
Overlap Stepnose: Stepnose transitions are used for stairs, step-downs or landings. These pieces are similar to flush stairnose, however they slightly overlap the laminate when installed. The main producers for Overlap Stepnose are Armstrong and Bruce; most other manufacturers only offer flush stairnose.
Quarter Round: Quarter Round is the perfect way to cover the expansion gaps you will need to leave between your new laminate floor and existing baseboards. It is important to remember that Quarter Round must be nailed to the wall or baseboard, and not to your laminate flooring.
T-Mold: T-Mold transitions are the easiest way to adjoin two floors of the same height, such as laminate floor to laminate floor or laminate flooring to a ceramic that is exactly the same height. Any difference in height between the two floors may cause the T-Mold to crack. T-Molding may also be required by the manufacturer of your laminate flooring if your area is large. Please refer to the installation instructions for your specific laminate flooring for more details.
Wall Base: Wall Base, or baseboard, is used to create a customized finish along your walls. Wall Base adds a classic touch to any room and is any easy way to cover necessary expansion gaps, when installed after the laminate flooring.
Multi-Functional Pieces: An innovative new approach to laminate flooring transition pieces are the multi-functional pieces some manufacturers are creating. These transition pieces can be used as a T-Mold, End Cap, Reducer or Square Nose. If you are installing a Mohawk Laminate Floor, check out their Instaform piece. When purchasing a Quick-Step Laminate Floor, look for their Incizo trim.
Deciding which pieces you will need to complete your laminate flooring installation should be easier now that you know the basics. Simply take a look at the areas in which you will be installing, make a note of where your laminate floor will meet up with different flooring and write down the lengths of these areas. All of the transition pieces available at Efloors.com are sold by the piece, and we clearly mark the length of each piece. Of course, if you have any additional questions, or would like help placing your order, please feel free to call us at 888-775-7595.
What every homeowner needs to know about living with hardwood floors
It's hard to put your finger on it, but there's something about a real hardwood floor that just brings a room together. All the beautiful things that make up your home take on a warmer glow and new elegance. It's not hard to image a hardwood floor as the foundation of your personal sanctuary - a calming influence far away from such worldly concerns as early morning meetings, traffic jams and demanding people.
While your new floor won't be a solution for the problems of everyday life, there is one thing we can say with certainty. A custom hardwood floor will make just about anything in your room look better.
Like anything made of fine wood, there is a great deal of craftsmanship that goes into producing the finished product. Every floor has its own distinctive character; it is like no other.
Another important characteristic to remember is that wood is hygroscopic material. That means that when it is exposed to varying temperatures and humidity, wood releases or absorbs moisture until it is in equilibrium with the surrounding atmosphere.
Because we want you to be a satisfied customer, it's important that you have good information and know what to expect with your new hardwood floor.
Caring for Hardwood Flooring
Custom hardwood floors, when properly finished, are the easiest of all floor surfaces to keep clean and looking good year after year. Follow these simple guidelines:
Routinely: Dust mop, sweep or vacuum at least twice a week to keep your floor grit and dust free.
Spills: Soak up and blot spills promptly. It is safe to wipe with a barely damp cloth and then towel dry.
Restoration: Know the brand of flooring and the type of finish on your floor before applying any cleaning products. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper care or consult a floor-finishing specialist.
Do Not: Wet mop because standing water can cause wood to swell and buckle. Also, do not use: Murphy's Oil Soap, Fantastic, Formula 409, dish washing detergents, powdered all-purpose cleaners, paste wax, Endust, Pledge, Future, Mop-N-Glow, Brite or any similar products. Above all, never use a self-polishing acrylic wax made for sheet vinyl on a wood floor. These products make wood slippery and dull, especially if coated with a polyurethane finish.
Cleaning Products
Protect your investment by using the recommended cleaning, maintenance and restorative products on your new flooring. Your dealer will usually have these products in stock.
If you're worried about making the right hardwood flooring choice, you aren't alone. Most of the calls we get everyday are from people asking us to explain the differences between solid and engineered hardwood. So today, I thought I'd explain the features and benefits of each type of flooring to help you in choosing the one that's right for you.
In the final analysis, whether you end up with an engineered floor or a solid hardwood floor, the ultimate beauty, amazingly, will be quite similar. After your floor has been installed, you'll never see more than the top surface anyway.
Here are eight criteria to use in making your decision:
1. Refinishing: This is the first question most of our callers ask. Solid hardwood flooring can generally be refinished many times because it can be sanded and re-sanded nearly all the way down to the tongue and groove of the boards. That could be as much as 1/4'' or about one third of the thickness of the board and believe me, that's a lot of sanding. But, most engineered floors can be sanded too, especially if you choose one with a thicker saw cut face, such as the BR-111 Allure series. As a practical matter, for most residential uses, the new factory finishes are so durable that you will get a lifetime of carefree use before a new finish is ever needed. Refinishing, therefore, usually becomes a secondary consideration in the selection process.
2. Flexibility: Versatility is always an important factor in choosing flooring. Today, engineered hardwood flooring is really quite versatile. It can be installed using either glue or staples, and as a result of recent developments in locking systems, now it can even ''float''. It can also be installed over all types of subfloors, from suspended wood to concrete slab. Engineered hardwood flooring, given proper conditions, can be used below grade. Solid hardwood flooring, on the other hand, needs to be stapled down over suspended floors, so it can only be installed above grade. In order to fasten solid hardwood flooring over a concrete floor, plywood or firing strips would have to be installed first. It can be done, but it is time consuming and expensive.
3. Thickness: Engineered hardwood flooring is generally thinner than solid hardwood. That means it can be used in many remodeling projects where a 3/4 inch solid floor would create a height problem. Engineered floors range in thickness from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch.
4. Stability: For the most part, hardwood flooring is quite dimensionally stable over time. Solid hardwood may, under certain climatic conditions, be subject to swelling or shrinking. Engineered hardwood flooring, on the other hand, while still subject to slight movement, is the better choice where extreme seasonal climate changes may cause problems. The plywood-like construction of an engineered floor gives it more dimensional stability.
5. Cost: Typically, engineered hardwood flooring will cost you less than solid hardwood flooring for the same look, because less of the valuable tree is used than with solid wood. Also, freight costs are lower because engineered flooring is lighter in weight and therefore less costly to transport. These factors also help make engineered flooring friendly to the environment. View Shaw's Green Edge engineered hardwood to see a great example of an environmentally friendly floor.
6. Prestige: If there is no limit to your imagination and no limit to your pocket book, then there is no limit to the variety of beautiful floors that can be created from custom patterns, exotic species and fine finishes. Some of the most expensive custom floors around the world are made from combinations of solid hardwood species, usually 3/4'' thick. Solid hardwood floors do a better job of minimizing ''bounce'' over suspended floors. They add a lasting sense of value and beauty to your home.
7. Choose a Known Brand: It is recommended that you choose from major brands such as Bruce, Hartco, Armstrong, Mannington, Shaw, Mohawk, BR-111, etc. Avoid off-brand floors. It is easy to find unknown brands at ''bargain prices'', just make sure that the hardwood has been properly graded, or your installer will end up with a lot of waste having to cull boards that aren't straight or have other milling and finishing irregularities. You can also find ''bargains'' in engineered hardwood, but those will generally have layers, or plies, of wood that are made from inexpensive, soft pulp woods, where the valuable surface is just a very thin slice of wood, as opposed to a properly sawn floor.
8. Follow the Installation Instructions: In the long run, your finished floor is only as good as the installation. If you are contracting with an independent installer, it is always smart to verify that he is licensed and that he has good references before going to contract. For more information on this topic, be sure to read our blog entry on Hiring An Installer.
Q: Can I put office chairs on my new laminate floor?
A: Of course you can! While laminate flooring is very durable you will want to make sure your new floors are sufficiently protected.
To help your new floor maintain its appearance it is best to use office chairs with soft casters. Soft casters have a soft surface on the wheel, often in a different color. If you are purchasing new office chairs you should be able to specify if you would like soft or hard casters. For existing chairs with hard casters, contact your office chair supplier to order soft casters as a replacement.
Soft casters not only protect your laminate floor they also increase your sitting comfort!
Another option for helping your new laminate floor retain its appearance is to use a transparent protective mat under your office chairs. These mats are readily available at most office supply stores. Make sure you purchase a mat that is large enough to cover the area needed and that your mat is specified for hard floor surfaces. Mats designed to be used over carpeting will have spikes on the underside - this will damage your floor instead of protecting it.
EIGHT ESSENTIAL STEPS IN HIRING A HARDWOOD FLOOR INSTALLER
Installing your hardwood floor may look easy to do, but it isn't. It is hard work and requires a lot of skill and experience. It's smart, therefore, to hire someone who installs hardwood everyday for a living. Your installer should have the specialized knowledge and the proper tools and equipment to complete your job expertly and on time.
Buying your flooring separately and contracting directly with a good installer to put it down for you is a very economical way of getting a great new floor. You can save a lot of money doing it this way, but as always, be careful and take the precaution of getting your agreement in writing.
Independent hardwood installers often own small companies. They may work for a number of retailers and contractors. You can generally find them in the Yellow Pages, the ad section of your local paper's Home section or online. You can also ask friends for referrals. Try to get estimates from at least two installers - three is even better.
Once you've got the installer in your home, show him the area to be covered and go over this list. Your installer will appreciate this because he, like most people, wants to do the job right and end up with you as another satisfied customer. He will certainly have questions and suggestions of his own.
1. First of all, he should use a tape measure, a rolling wheel, or a laser measure to determine the size of the flooring area you want to cover. He will add 10% (give or take) to the net square footage to cover cutting waste and discarding any boards that may have minor imperfections.
2. He will usually diagram the area on paper, making a drawing of your rooms with all the dimensions figured in.
3. Next, show him a sample of the flooring you have selected. This will help him determine what transition strips, stair nosing, wood floor vents, quarter round, base board and other accessories you will need to purchase.
4. He will also check the height of adjoining floors, counter tops, cabinets, etc. to make certain that everything will fit properly after the new floor has been installed. It is essential to have all of your materials at the start of your job in order to get a neatly finished job done on time. We like to say that it is best to start the job right in order to finish it right.
5. Ask him to confirm that the conditions of your home are suitable for the flooring you want to install. He may ask to remove a piece of existing floor or go into the basement or crawl space to check the condition of the basic floor.
6. Ask for an itemization of any additional charges for flooring removal, repair of sub-floor, cutting of doors and other work related to the finished product.
7. If you are living in the home, discuss where the sawing of boards will occur. Specify if you want him to seal off the rooms with plastic and identify who will be responsible for final clean up.
8. Get the proposal in writing and keep your copy of it in a safe place. It may be a good idea to download a copy of the installation instructions and make that part of your contract. If there is a problem along the way, it is always useful to go back to the written contract. Your contract should include, among other things, the number of square feet you'll need, and a list of any accessories to buy. It should also include his square foot cost of installation and a total dollar amount for the entire job.
Which installation method is best? The method used for your hardwood installation will depend upon the type of product you have chosen, where the flooring will be installed and the type of subfloor. Nail down, glue down & floating are the three type of installation. For instance, if you are remodeling your kitchen, some products can be "floated" over most subfloors, including vinyl or ceramic tile, eliminating the mess and cost of tearing up the existing floor and installing a subfloor.
Which rooms can I install solid wood flooring? Solid wood is suitable for any room except the bathroom. You must also consider whether the floor will be on, above or below-grade (in general terms this is the floor level. Above grade is above ground, below grade is below ground - ie. In a basement). Due to potential moisture problems, solid hardwood is not suitable in basements but are fine for on or above grade rooms.
What to I do to remove scratches in my wood floor? This really depends on the type of wood floor you have, the finish you have and how deep the scratches are in the top layer. For small minor scratches in a urethane finish you should be able to order a touch-up kit from the store you purchased the flooring from. Be sure to use the manufacturer's recommended finish products and test first by applying a small amount in an out of the way area. For deep scratches you will probably have to have a professional do a screen and recoat. This is where they use special sanding screens to lightly abrade the floor's finish to help the new urethane bond better to the existing finish. With some wood floors you may be able to just replace the damaged boards. It is best to leave the sand and recoat, or board replacement to a professional flooring installer, or refinisher.
What is Floating Flooring? Floating flooring is where the flooring is laid down over a layer of underlay. The individual planks are glued together, and they are not glued or nailed in to the permanent floor. By doing this the floor is "floating" above the underlay - this is the standard installation method for laminate flooring and is not recommended as the best method for solid wood floors.
Can I use throw rugs on my hardwood floor? Before using any throw rugs on your wood floor you should know the type of finish you have on the floor. All rugs should be non-staining, meaning the colored dyes will not bleed. Generally in the presence of moisture, some dyes used in rugs may bleed through onto your floor and discolor the wood floors surface. Also, be sure the rug does not have a rough backing material that may scratch the surface of the floor. Clean dirt and debris from under the rug regularly. To prevent possible shading of the wood underneath the rug, move the rug occasionally.
Q: What can I do to eliminate the mold on my carpet? A: Locate and repair the source of the moisture. It is best to call a professional water restoration cleaner in order to ensure all mold is eliminated.
Q: My carpet was soaked due to a flood, what are my options? A: Carpet should be professionally extracted & dryers setup and running within 12 to 24 hours. It's best to use a professional that is trained in water restoration in order to ensure carpet, pad & sub-floor is completely dried within 12 to 24 hours to prevent mold. If the carpet is contaminated with sewage, it is recommended to properly dispose of carpet and pad.
Q: Does my carpet pad need replacing after being soaked? A: Generally yes; although, some newly developed restoration procedures may be able to salvage the cushion. Wet carpet cushion is very difficult to adequately dry quickly.
Q: My sewage drain overflowed and has saturated my carpet, can my Carpet be saved? A: We don't recommend trying to save sewage contaminated carpet. Highly absorbent materials such as carpet and pad cannot be washed in hot (130 degrees F) for at least 10 minutes. This contaminated material should be properly disposed of by a trained restoration professional.
Q: Is there a fiber that will not mold? A: Anything can mold as long as there is moisture or a food source. Carpet, including those made of natural fibers such as wool, that is kept clean and dry shouldn't have a mold problem.
Q: What most commonly damages the surface of a real wood floor? A: Rolling or sliding furniture and appliances over your floor can scratch the finish and leave indention marks even in the hardest woods. High heel shoes which concentrate weight to a small point or other shoes which may have small rocks or dirt embedded in the tread can also scratch the finish and leave indention marks. Dogs as well are capable of scratching the finish and leaving indented claw marks. Heavy or blunt objects dropped on the floor are another source for scratches and indentations. In realistic less than perfect conditions virtually all wood floors exhibit some of these marks but overall still remain quite beautiful. This usually superficial damage does not affect the structural integrity of the wood and in most cases can be easily remedied the next time you sand and refinish your floor. Some real wood floors however are seldom refinished so to preserve their naturally worn character.
