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Timberland: Gunstock 3/8" x 5" Engineered Hardwood EAK21LGCW
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Timberland: Gunstock 3/8" x 5" Engineered Hardwood EAK21LGCW

Product ID: 3028

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22.00 SQ FT PER CARTON
Approved Subfloor: Wood or Concrete
Carton Coverage: 22
Color Group: Beige/Tan
Color Name: Gunstock
Color Variation: High
Colors: Pumpkin,Toast,Cinnamon
Construction: Engineered
Description: 3/8" Thick (5 ply)
Dimensions: 5" Wide x Random Lengths 10" to 48"
Edge Profile: Micro-beveled edges and ends
Finish Group: Traditional
Finish Type: Low Gloss Aluminum Oxide
Finish Warranty: As-Is - No Warranty or Returns
Grade: Value Tavern Grade - What does this mean? Value Tavern grade hardwood includes the natural characteristics of mineral streaks, small knots and wormholes. It can also be referred to as #2 or Second Grade.
Installation Method: Floating
Locking: Lock&Fold Technology
Manufacturer: Bruce by Armstrong
Manufacturer SKU: EAK21LGCW
Photo Sensitivity: Low
Species: Red Oak
Species Group: Red Oak
Style Name: Timberland
Thickness: 3/8"
Where to Install: On, Above, Below Grade, Over Radiant Heat
Width: 5"
Features Benefits
 
 
Lock And Fold Technology
         
 
Hardwood that installs like a laminate!  No gluing, nailing or stapling required.
 
 
Rustic Hardwood Appearance Value Tavern Grade hardwood includes the natural characteristics of mineral streaks, small knots and wormholes.  It can also be referred to as #2 or Second Grade. Click here to learn more.
 
 
5 Ply Construction 5 Ply Engineered construction provides maximum strength and stability - even in your basement!
 
 
Micro-Bevel Detailing       Timberland hardwood floors feature micro-beveled ends and edges to highlight each plank.

Timberland Value Grade Lock & Fold Hardwood Installation System
Installation \ Hardwood\Timberland Value Grade Lock & Fold Hardwood Installation System

I. GENERAL INFORMATION
 
Owner/Installer Responsibility

Beautiful wood floors are a product of nature, and therefore, not perfect. Our wood floors are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit grading deficiencies not to exceed 5%. These grading deficiencies may be of a manufacturing or natural type. When flooring is ordered, 5% must be added to the actual square footage needed for cutting and grading allowance (10% for diagonal installations).
 
  • The owner/installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality. This inspection of all flooring should be done before installation. Carefully examine flooring for color, finish and quality before installing it. lf material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.
  • Prior to installation of any wood-flooring product, the owner/installer must determine that the job-site environment and the subsurfaces involved meet or exceed all applicable standards. Recommendations of the construction and materials industries as well as local codes must be followed. These instructions recommend that the construction and subfloor be clean, dry, stiff, structurally sound and flat. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure resulting from or associated with subfloor and substrates or job-site environmental deficiencies.
  • Prior to installation, the owner/installer has final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and factory finish. The installer must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with deficiencies, whatever the cause. Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture or factory finish, the installer should not use the piece.
  • Use of stain, filler or putty stick for touch-up and appropriate products for correcting subfloor voids is accepted as part of normal installation procedures.
ATTENTION INSTALLERS
CAUTION: WOOD DUST
Sawing, sanding and machining wood products can product wood dust. Airborne wood dust can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans.
 
Precautionary Measures: If power tools are used, they should be equipped with a dust collector. If high dust levels are encountered, use an appropriate NIOSH-designated dust mask. Avoid dust contact with eye and skin.
 
First Aid Measures In Case of Irritation: In case of irritation, flush eyes or skin with water for at least 15 minutes.
 
If you have any technical or installation questions, or to request a Material Safety Data Sheet, please call 1 800 233 3823 or visit www.floorexpert.com, our technical website.
 
IMPORTANT HEALTH NOTICE FOR MINNESOTA RESIDENTS ONLY:
THESE BUILDING MATERIALS EMIT FORMALDEHYDE, EYE, NOSE AND THROAT IRRITATION, HEADACHE, NAUSEA AND A VARIETY OF ASTHMA-LIKE SYMPTOMS, INCLUDING SHORTNESS OF BREATH, HAVE BEEN REPORTED AS A RESULT OF FORMALDEHYDE EXPOSURE, ELDERLY PERSONS AND YOUNG CHILDREN, AS WELL AS ANYONE WITH A HISTORY OF ASTHMA, ALLERGIES, OR LUNG PROBLEMS, MAY BE AT GREATER RISK. RESEARCH IS CONTINUING ON THE POSSIBLE LONG-TERM EFFECTS OF EXPOSURE TO FORMALDEHYDE.
 
REDUCED VENTILATION MAY ALLOW FORMALDEHYDE AND OTHER CONTAMINANTS TO ACCUMULATE IN THE INDOOR AIR. HIGH INDOOR TEMPERATURES AND HUMIDITY RAISE FORMALDEHYDE LEVELS. WHEN A HOME IS TO BE LOCATED IN AREAS SUBJECT TO EXTREME SUMMER TEMPERATURES, AN AIR-CONDITIONING SYSTEM CAN BE USED TO CONTROL INDOOR TEMPERATURE LEVELS. OTHER MEANS OF CONTROLLED MECHANICAL VENTILATION CAN BE USED TO REDUCE LEVELS OF FORMALDEHYDE AND OTHER INDOOR AIR CONTAMINANTS.
 
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS REGARDING THE HEALTH EFFECTS OF FORMALDEHYDE, CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR OR LOCAL HEALTH DEPARTMENT.
 
II. PREPARATION
Storage and Handling

Handle and unload with care. Store in a dry place being sure to provide at least a 4" (10 cm) air space under cartons, which are stored upon "on-grade" concrete floors. Flooring shall not be delivered until the building has been enclosed with windows, doors are in place, and cement work, plastering and all other "wet" work is completed and dry. Concrete should be at least 60 days old. Although it is not necessary to acclimate engineered flooring it is best to store it in the environment in which it is expected to perform prior to installation. Do not open cartons of locking hardwood flooring in advance of installation. Air conditioning/heating systems should be in place and in operation at least 14 days prior, during and after installation of the flooring.
 
Job-Site Conditions
 
  • The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other "wet" work should be thoroughly dry. The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the final coat on the base molding. When possible, delay installation of base molding until flooring installation is complete. Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated.
  • Exterior grading should be complete with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3" in 10'. (8 cm in 3 m) to direct flow of water away from the structure. All gutters and downspouts should be in place.
  • Engineered flooring may be installed below, on or above grade level. Do not install in full bathrooms.
  • Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 18" (46 cm) from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover of 6-20 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped 6" (15 cm) and sealed with moisture-resistant tape. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of 1.5% of the crawl space square footage. These vents should be properly located to foster cross ventilation. Where necessary, local regulations prevail.
  • Permanent air conditioning and heating systems should be in place and operational. The installation site should have a consistent room temperature of 60-80 degrees F (16-27 degrees C) and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior, during and until occupied.
  • Subfloor (wood or concrete) must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate testing method and documented.
WARNING: EXISTING IN-PLACE RESILIENT FLOOR COVERING AND ASPHALTIC ADHESIVES. DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE, DRILL, SAW, BEADBLAST, OR MECHANICALLY CHIP OR PULVERIZE EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING, BACKING, LINING FELT, ASPHALTIC "CUTBACK" ADHESIVE, OR OTHER ADHESIVE.
 
  • These existing in-place products may contain asbestos fibers and/or crystalline silica.
  • Avoid creating dust. Inhalation of such dust is a cancer and respiratory tract hazard.
  • Smoking by individuals exposed to asbestos fibers greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm.
  • Unless positively certain that the existing in-place product is a non-asbestos-containing material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations may require that the material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern removal and disposal of material.
  • See current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) publication Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings for instructions on removing all resilient floor covering structures or contact your retailer or Armstrong World Industries, Inc. 1 800 233 3823.
  • The floor covering or adhesive in this package does NOT contain asbestos.
 
Subfloor Conditions
  • CLEAN - Subfloor must be free of wax, paint, oil, sealers, adhesives and other debris.
  • LEVEL/FLAT - Within 3/16" in 10' (5 mm in 3 m) and/or 1/8" in 6' (3 mm in 2 m). Sand high areas or joints. Fill low areas with a latex additive cementitious leveling compound of 3,000-PSl minimum compressive strength such as Armstrong™ S-194 Patch, Underlayment & Embossing Leveler with S-195 Underlayment Additive. Follow the instructions of the leveling compound manufacturer. Leveling compounds must be tested for moisture to ensure they are within the specified requirements for proper installation.
  • DRY - Check and document moisture content of the subfloor using the appropriate moisture test. Moisture content of wood subfloors must not exceed 13% on a wood moisture meter, or read more than a 4% difference from the moisture level of the
    product being installed.
  • STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any areas that are loose or squeak. Wood panels should exhibit an adequate fastening pattern, glued/screwed or nailed as system requires using an acceptable nailing pattern. Typical: 6" (15 cm) along bearing edges and 12' (30 cm) along intermediate supports. Flatten edge swell as necessary. Replace any water-damaged, swollen or delaminated subflooring or underlayments.
Note: Avoid subfloors with excessive vertical movement. Optimum performance of hardwood floor covering products occurs when there is little horizontal or vertical movement of the subfloor. If the subfloor has excessive vertical movement (deflection) before the installation of the flooring it is likely it will do so after installation of the flooring is complete. As flooring manufacturers we are unable to evaluate each engineered system. Spacing and spans, as well as their engineering methods, are the responsibility of the builder, engineer, architect or consumer, who is better able to evaluate the expected result based on site related performance.
 
Tools and Accessories Needed
 
• Broom • Pencil • Safety glasses • Matching filler • Moisture meter (wood, concrete or both)
• Transition and wall moldings as needed • Hand saw, table saw, circular saw or band saw
• Recommended underlayment for hardwood flooring • Tape measure • Carpenter square
• Hammer or rubber mallet • Vinyl/plastic tapping block • Pull-bar • Utility knife
• NIOSH - designated dust mask • Recommended wood glue • 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 tape
• Recommended hardwood flooring cleaner
 
III. SUBFLOOR/UNDERLAYMENT REQUIREMENTS
 
Concrete Moisture Tests
All concrete subfloors should be tested and results documented for moisture content. Visual checks may not be reliable. Test several areas, especially near exterior and plumbing walls.
 
Acceptable test methods for subfloor moisture content include:
  • A 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous alcohol solution. Chip the concrete at least 1/4" (6 mm) deep (do not apply directly to the concrete surface) and apply several drops of the solution to the chipped area. If any color change occurs, further testing is required.
  • Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter meter. Moisture readings should not exceed 4.5 on the upper scale.
  • Polyfilm Test: Apply 3'x3' (1 m x l m) pieces of polyethylene film to the subfloor and leave in place for 24 hours. Assure all edges are completely sealed with water-resistant tape. Darkened concrete or condensation on film indicates presence of moisture and requires additional measurements with the Tramex meter, Calcium Chloride or RH test.
Note: The following tests are required in commercial applications, either or both tests are acceptable.
  • Calcium Chloride test (ASTM F1869): The maximum moisture transfer must not exceed 3 lbs/1000 square feet in 24 hours with this test.
  • RH Levels in Concrete Using In-situ Probes (ASTM F2170-02) should not exceed 75%.
"DRY" CONCRETE, AS DEFINED BY THESE TESTS CAN BE WET AT OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR. THESE TESTS DO NOT GUARANTEE A DRY SLAB. ALL NEW CONSTRUCTION CONCRETE SLABS SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF 6 MIL (10 MIL PREFERRED) POLY FILM MOISTURE BARRIER BETWEEN THE GROUND AND THE CONCRETE.
 
Moisture-Retardant Systems:
lf excessive moisture is present or anticipated, use Armstrong VapArrest S-135 or inexpensive sheet vinyl to reduce vapor intrusion.

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for subfloor preparation and the application of the moisture retardant system.
  • Sheet vinyl. An inexpensive sheet vinyl or "slip-sheet" (felt-backed with vinyl wear layer) may be installed. Use a premium grade, alkali resistant adhesive and a full spread application system to properly bond the vinyl to the subfloor. Follow the sheet vinyl manufacturer's instructions for installation procedures. A bond test may be required as an adhesion test. Install several small areas (3' x 3') (1 m x 1 m) and allow the vinyl to set for 72 hours. Remove the vinyl. If the backing remains attached to the concrete, the subfloor should be acceptable for sheet vinyl installation. Install the sheet vinyl and allow the
    adhesive to cure for 24 hours prior to beginning installation. Always check for adequate adhesive bond.
IV. INSTALLING THE FLOOR
 
Before You Start
  • Before installing the planks, central heat or air conditioning should be operating for 14 days.
  • Planks should be stored in a flat position.
  • Store planks in the room where it is to be installed. Do not open the packages until installation begins.
  • Install only at room temperature above 60°F (16°C) and 35-55% humidity conditions.
  • In rooms with under-floor (radiant) heating, the surface temperature of the subfloor may not, under any circumstances, exceed 85°F (29°C). Increasing heat should be done in 5 degree increments. Ascertain that the subfloor is properly engineered or controlled for the flooring being installed. Subfloors designed for materials with higher resistance to heat
    transfer, such as carpet, WILL damage the flooring. Installations that include multiple floor covering products on a single heating circuit must be adjusted for the flooring product with the highest heat transfer or lowest temperature requirement.
  • When possible, preselect and set aside boards that blend best with all horizontally mounted moldings (reducer/stair nose etc.) This will assure a uniform final appearance. Install these boards adjoining the moldings.
  • Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
  • If possible, remove all wall mounted moldings such as base and quarter round.
  • The floating floor underlayment already has double-sided tape for ease of taping the precut overlapping seams. If a non-adhesive underlayment is used, tape all seams with the included tape unless the installation is over wood or wood composite subfloor. Do not install in areas of high moisture incidence such as bathrooms and powder rooms.

NOTE: DO NOT INSTALL FLOORING USING RUBBER MALLETS. STRIKING THE SURFACE WITH A RUBBER MALLET MAY "BURN" THE FINISH CAUSING IRREPARABLE DAMAGE.

STEP 1: Doorway and Wall Preparation
Undercut door casings and jambs. Remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation. All door casings and jambs
should be undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts.
 
STEP 2: Establish a Starting Point
  • Decide the direction of the floor installation in the room. Planks installed parallel to windows accent the floor the best. Floors should be installed perpendicular to the floor joists. Stiffen subfloors as necessary to prevent vertical movement.
  • Avoid narrow pieces at the finish wall. Measure the distance between the starting wall and the finish wall, divide this number by the width of the board. lf the remainder is less than 1-1/2', (4 cm), cut off 1-1/2" (4 cm) from the width of the first row, or to balance the room add the difference to the plank width and divide by two. The final row will normally be narrower than the others and will have to be ripped lengthwise.
NOTE: The last row should not be narrower than 1-1/2" (4 cm). lf the walls are uneven or the last plank is less than 1-1/2" (4 cm), it may be necessary to rip the first or last rows to fit the contour of the wall or to glue the narrow rip to the adjoining full piece.
 
 
STEP 3: Laying the Underlayment
  • Install the underlayment in the same direction that the wood flooring is to be installed.
  • Extend the underlayment a few inches up the wall.
  • Trim excess prior to installing trim or moldings.
  • The floating floor underlayment already has double-sided tape for ease of taping the precut overlapping seams. If a non-adhesive underlayment is used, tape all seams with the included tape.
 
STEP 4: Installing First Row
  • Select a board to begin installation of the first row using the longest boards available.
  • Starting from the LEFT with the tongue facing the wall, carefully place the first board in place. Use wedges or 1/2" (13 mm) scrap along the wall to hold plank in place while allowing the required expansion space.
  • Align the next piece by overlapping the end of the first board so that the joint is tight when the board lays flat. Some slight adjustment of the board may be necessary to assure a tight fit.
  • Again, place wedges or 1/2" (13 mm) scrap as necessary to restrain movement and maintain expansion zone.
  • Continue in this manner until the first row is complete.
  • Cut the final board to length allowing the necessary expansion zone.
  • Place wedges to restrain movement and maintain expansion zone.
  • If the wall is not straight, scribe the first board as necessary to maintain alignment.
 
STEP 5: Installing Remaining Rows
  • Begin the second row with the cut piece from the first row. If the cut piece is shorter than 8" (20 cm) do not use it. Instead, begin with a new board that exceeds 8" (20 cm) in length and allows 6" (15 cm) spacing between the end joints.
  • Place the first board in place by angling it up slightly, pushing forward and interlocking the side tongue. Slide the board to the LEFT as necessary to align the edges of the end joint.
  • Carefully push the board down until tongue and groove lock together on the side and ends.
  • A slight tap with a tapping block may be necessary to complete the interlock.
  • Restrain the movement of the board by installing a wedge in the expansion zone.
  • Install all remaining boards and rows in the same manner.
  • Cut the last board to size, allowing for the expansion zone, and install as above.
  • If necessary, complete the tight fit by tapping the board into place with a pull bar.
  • Whenever practical, use cut pieces from previous rows as a starter board to reduce waste.
  • Maintain 6" (15 cm) spacing between end joints after the first four rows for best appearance.
STEP 6: Installing Final Row
  • The last row may need to be cut lengthwise (ripped).
  • Place the row of planks to be fit on top of the last row of installed planks. Use a piece of plank as a scribe to trace the contour of the wall.
  • Mark where the board will be cut. If the fit of the wall is simple and straight, just measure for the correct fit and cut.
  • After the last row is cut, use the pull bar to tighten the joint.
STEP 7: Installing Under a Door Jamb
  • Installations of locking engineered floors under moldings, such as a door jamb, may require that the top lip of the groove on the end be reduced in size.
  • Using a small plane or knife plane, shave off the ledge off the groove.
  • After the groove edge has been trimmed, place the board into place and tighten with a pull bar to test for fit.
  • If fit is incorrect, trim as necessary.
  • Place a bead of recommended wood glue on the bottom lip of the groove.
  • Reinsert the tongue into the groove and tighten the board with a pull bar. Hold the board in place with painters tape (3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape) until the glue is dry. Do not use masking tape or duct tape, as the finish may be damaged.
STEP 8: Completing the Installation
  • Remove all wedges and tape if used.
  • Clean floor with the recommended hardwood flooring cleaner.
  • Trim all underlayment and install, or re-install, all base and/or quarter round moldings. Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor. Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
  • If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
  • Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code number of the flooring they purchased.
  • To prevent surface damage, avoid rolling heavy furniture and appliances on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard or appliance lifts if necessary. Use protective castors/castor cups or felt pads on the legs of furniture to prevent damage to the flooring.
V. TRANSITION AND WALL MOLDINGS
  • Reducer Strip: A teardrop-shaped molding used as a transition to thinner floor covering materials and around fireplaces. Fasten down with adhesive, small nails or double-faced tape.
  • Threshold: A molding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile or existing thresholds to allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference. Fasten to subfloor with adhesive and/or nails through the heel. Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting.
  • Stair Nosing: A molding undercut for use as a stair landing trim, elevated floor perimeters and stair steps. Fasten down firmly with adhesive and nails or screws. Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting.
  • Quarter Round: A molding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards, case goods and stair steps. Pre-drill and nail to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
  • Combination Base and Shoe: A molding used when a base is desired. Used to cover expansion space between the floor and the wall. Pre-drill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
  • T-Molding: A molding used as a transition piece from one rigid flooring to another of similar height or to gain expansion spaces. Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding. Additional rigid support may need to be added to the heel of the molding dependent upon the thickness of the goods covered. Do not use this molding as a transition to carpet.
INSTALLERS - ADVISE YOUR CUSTOMER OF THE FOLLOWING
 
Seasons: Heating and Non-Heating
Recognizing that hardwood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity within your building, care should be taken to control humidity levels within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment and to assure that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, we have provided our recommendations below.
  • Heating Season (Dry): A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive shrinkage in hardwood floors due to low humidity levels. Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
  • Non-Heating Season (Humid, Wet): Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner, dehumidifier, or by turning on your heating system periodically during the summer months. Avoid excessive exposure to water from tracking
    during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct in any way the expansion joint around the perimeter of your floor.
NOTE: Final inspection by the end-user should occur from a standing position.
 
FLOOR REPAIR
Minor damage can be repaired with a touch-up kit or filler. Major damage will require board replacement, which can be done by a professional floor installer.