Bruce® Laminate Flooring
Locking Laminate Planks - Wood and Tile Visuals
Always check each board for damage before installing
1. Avoid narrow pieces at the finish wall. Measure the distance between the starting wall and the finish wall.
2. Divide this number by the width of the board.
3. If the remainder is less than 2 1/2" (6.35 cm), cut off 2 1/2" (6.35 cm) from the width of the first row or, to balance the room add the difference to the plank width and divide by two.
4. Roll out the Armstrong™ Quiet Comfort or Quiet Comfort Premium Underlayment or Moisture Barrier Sheeting along the starting wall, and cut to length. Kitchen and bathroom installation require folding the underlayment up the wall 2" (5 cm). Place additional sections with butt seams as the installation progresses.
5. To minimize pattern repeats in the floor, always pull from at least three cartons of flooring while installing.
All wall irregularities require cutting the first or last row of boards to fit the contour of the wall.
1. Use dividers or a spacer turned sideways 1" (2.54 cm) wide to mark the contour.
2. Cut to shape.
3. Position the cut piece, using the pull bar to tighten the last piece in place.
4. Place a spacer between the end of the board and the side wall.
5. Two tapered spacers can be used as wedges to accommodate irregular walls.
1. A good quality carbide-tipped cutting blade that has been designed for composition and laminate materials such as melamine, coreboard, or other hard, dense, man-made materials is recommended. When extra clean cut edges are required - e.g., custom installations - you may need more elaborate cutting equipment.
2. When using a hand saw, cut with the decorative side of the board facing up.
3. When using power saws, the direction of the blade must cut into the decorative side of the board to minimize chipping.
4. Use a square to keep your cut line straight.
5. Cut the marked piece in another area to keep the sawdust away from the installation site.
Installing the First Row
1. Begin on the left side of the room and work right.
2. Lay the first full piece with the small, tongue side facing the wall.
3. Install second and subsequent full pieces in the first row by aligning short ends of boards and locking into place.
4. Use spacers along all sides that butt up against walls to maintain 1/4" (6.35 mm) to 1/2" (12.7 mm) expansion zone.
5. Continue laying boards in the first row until you need to cut the last piece.
6. Measure the distance between the wall and the face surface of the last board. Subtract 1/4" (6.35 mm), and cut the board. (See cutting instructions above.)
7. If this distance is less than 8" (20.32 cm) go back to the first full plank and cut approximately 8" (20.32 cm) from the end closest to the starting wall. This will leave a longer piece at the end of the first row.
8. When installing tile visuals, grout lines can be aligned or off-set. If the tiles are being balanced in the room with equal-sized tile along each wall, measurements and adjustments should be done before proceeding to second row.
Installing Remaining Rows
1. Begin the second row of planks with the piece cut from the last piece in the first row. If the piece is shorter than 8" (20.32 cm) cut a new plank in half and use it to begin the second row. Whenever practical, use the piece cut from the preceding row to start the next row. End joints of all boards should be staggered 8" (20.32 cm) of more. Grout lines on planks with tile visuals can be aligned, or off-set as long as end joints are staggered.
2. Install the long end of the first board at an angle to the board in the previous row. Keep this board at its natural angle slightly raised off the subfloor. Use a scrap piece of laminate to support the row if needed.
3. Continue installing full boards in the second row by angling the short end of the next board in the row to lock into the previous board. Position the board so that the long side of the board is close to the boards in the previous row and overlapping the grove of the boards in the previous row.
Installing the Last Row
1. The last row in the installation may need to be cut lengthwise.
2. Place the row of planks to be fit on top of the last row of installed planks. Use a divider or a piece of the plank as a scribe to trace the contour of the wall.
3. Be sure to place a spacer between the marking pen and "scribe" piece of board. This adds the 1/4" (6.35 mm) to 1/2" (12.70 mm) space you need at the finish wall.
4. Mark where the board should be cut.
5. If the fit at the finish wall is simple and straight, just measure for the correct width and cut.
6. After the last row is installed, use the pull bar to tighten the joints.
7. When appropriate, cut the underlayment even with the top of the floor.
Installing Under a Door Jamb or Toe Kick
Installation of locking laminate through a door jamb or under a toe kick requires the lip of the groove to be reduced in size.
1. Using a small plane or utility knife, plane or shave off 75% of the ledge of the groove.
2. Be careful not to trim too much. Excessive reduction can weaken the joint.
3. After the groove ledge has been trimmed, place the board in position laterally and lightly pull the board into place using the pull bar.
4. Sometimes, more than one passing may be necessary in order to trim the ledge of the groove to the correct height.
5. Joint should be tight with no movement, however a tin, 3/32" (2.4 mm) bead of glue on top of tongue only, should be used at this juncture to ensure joint integrity.
Finishing the Installation
1. Remove spacers and install molding pieces. (See Coordinated Transitions and Molding Pieces)
2. Always predrill transitions or moldings prior to nailing. To allow the floating floor to move freely, do not fasten the trim to the laminate flooring.
3. For everyday cleaning, vacuum or damp mop. To remove excessive dirt buildup, use Armstrong™ Hardwood & Laminate Floor Cleaner (S-302) or Bruce® Dura-Luster® No-Wax Floor Cleaner.
4. DO NOT WAX OR POLISH YOUR FLOOR.