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Armstrong Rustics Premium: New England Long Plank Boston Tea 12mm Laminate L6580

Armstrong Rustics Premium: New England Long Plank Boston Tea 12mm Laminate L6580

Product ID: 2136

Availability: Typically Ships In 5 - 7 Business Days
Regular Price: $5.29
SALE PRICE:
$3.29SQ FT
Carton Price: $61.79
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18.78 SQ FT PER CARTON
Quantity:
SQ FT Carton(s)
Approved Subfloor: Wood or Concrete
Carton Coverage: 18.78 sq ft
Color Group: Beige
Color Name: Boston Tea
Colors: Latte,Peppercorn,Seaside
Description: 12 mm Laminate
Dimensions: 88.97" L x 7.59" W x 0.48" T
Finish Type: VisionGuard Surface
Finish Warranty: 30 Year Residential / 10 Year Light Commercial
Installation Method: Float
Locking: Lock & Fold
Manufacturer: Armstrong
Manufacturer SKU: L6580
Planks Per Carton: 4
Style Name: Rustics Premium New England Long Plank
Thickness: 12mm
Visual: Wood
Where to Install: On, Above or Below Grade
FEATURES
BENEFITS
  • Premium Plank
The placement of just one plank results in 5 sq ft of flooring installed! You can literally have it all - premium hardwood designs in 7" wide / 7' long plank format and the guarantee of extreme durability you've come to reply on with Armstrong laminate
  • MasterWorks Technology
This innovative printing technology provides you with the most realistic look and feel of an authentic stone floor
  • HydraCore Plus
12 mm thickness with HydraCore Plus gives your floor superior stability and moisture resistance
  • VisionGuard Surface
 
 
This high performance wearlayer provides protection from wear, stains and fading - for 30 years
LAMINATE TOOLS AND MATERIALS
  • Armstrong™ Laminate Flooring
  • Armstrong Quiet Comfort Premium Underlayment
  • Armstrong Quiet Comfort Underlayment
  • Armstrong Moisture Barrier Sheeting S-1831
  • Armstrong Laminate Flooring Accessories
    • Armstrong S-1800 Laminate Glue
    • Bruce® Everseal™ Adhesive
    • Tapping Block S-1814
    • Pull Bar S-1812
    • Spacers S-1813
  • Armstrong Laminate Flooring Coordinated Transitions & Molding Pieces
    • Quarter Round Molding
    • T-Molding
    • Multi-Purpose Reducer
    • Reducer Strip
    • Baby Threshold
    • Wall Base
    • Flush Stairnose
    • Overlap Stepnose
  • Carpenter's Square
  • Tape Measure
  • Polyethylene Tape
  • Hammer
  • Utility Knife
  • Safety Glasses
  • NIOSH-Designated Dust Mask
  • Saw (see optional tools)
  • 100% Silicone Caulk (for bathroom & high moisture installations)
  • Bucket of Warm Water
  • Clean Cotton Cloths
  • Touch-Up Kit/Filler Kit
  • Plastic Scraper for Glue Removal
OPTIONAL TOOLS AND MATERIALS
  • Router
  • Drill
  • Saws
    • Table Saw
    • Miter Saw
    • Circular Saw
    • Hand Saw
    • Jigsaw
  • Dividers
  • Chalk Line
  • Cleaner such as Armstrong™ Hardwood & Laminate Cleaner or Bruce® Dura-Luster® No-Wax Floor Cleaner
  • White Vinegar
  • Pocket Plane
CAUTION WOOD DUST
Sawing, sanding or machining wood products can produce wood dust. Airborne wood dust can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans.
 
Always follow the manufacturer's instructions and practices when using power tools.
 
Precautionary Measures if Power Tools Are Used:
The power tools must be equipped with a dust collector. If high dust levels are encountered, use the appropriate NIOSH-designated dust mask. Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin.
 
First Aid Measures in Case of Irritation:
Flush eyes and skin with water for at least 15 minutes. Seek medical attention if irritation persists.
 
WARNING EXISTING IN-PLACE RESILIENT FLOOR COVERING AND ASPHALTIC ADHESIVES. DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE, DRILL, SAW, BEADBLAST, OR MECHANICALLY CHIP OR PULVERIZE EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING, BACKING, LINING FELT, ASPHALTIC "CUTBACK" ADHESIVE, OR OTHER ADHESIVE.
 
These existing in-place products may contain asbestos fibers and/or crystalline silica.
 
Avoid creating dust. Inhalation of such dust is a cancer and respiratory tract hazard.
 
Smoking by individuals exposed to asbestos fibers greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm.
 
Unless positively certain that the existing in-place product is a non-asbestos-containing material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations may require that the material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern removal and disposal of material.
 
See current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) publication Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings for instructions on removing all resilient floor covering structures or contact your retailer or Armstrong World Industries, Inc. 1 800 233 3823.
 
The floor covering or adhesive in this package does NOT contain asbestos.
 
FLOATING FLOOR STRUCTURE
 
Armstrong Laminate Flooring is considered a "floating" floor and is installed using a floating floor system. These floors are intended for indoor use only and can be installed over virtually any existing floor structure. Since these floors are composed of natural cellulose fibers, they will expand and contract with changes in relative humidity.
  • Do not attach to the subfloor at any point.
  • Do not fit flush against any fixed vertical surfaces like walls, pipes, passageways, or staircases.
  • For most installations, where the relative humidity is between 45% and 65%, a minimum of 1/4" (6.35 mm) to 1/2" (12.7 mm) expansion zone is required around the perimeter of the room as well as against any fixed objects. This zone accounts for the normal movement of the floor system.
  • Where the room is larger than 40' (12.19 m) but less than 80' (24.38 m) in plank length or wider than 26' (7.92 m) but less than 52' (15.85 m) a minimum of 1/2" (12.7 mm) expansion zone is required around the perimeter of the room as well as against any fixed objects or T-moldings must be used to compensate for this movement. Refer to Transitions & Molding Pieces, for further details.
  • Temperature changes will have little effect on the movement of these floors.
  • The number of square feet of laminate required is not equal to the number of square feet in the area of the room because the laminate must be fit to walls and objects. An approximate cutting allowance of 10% for wood visuals and 15% for tile visuals or herringbone must be added to the square footage estimate.
LAMINATE FLOORING GLUE
  • Specifically designed to create a strong, water-resistant bond between the tongue and groove.
  • The integrity of the floor installation depends on the use of the appropriate glue, the amount of glue and the proper installation techniques.
  • Use for Locking Laminate installations in full bathrooms, high moisture areas, and light commercial environments.
  • Easy cleanup.
  • Coverage for Locking Laminate using glue: up to 150 sq. ft. (500 lin. ft.)/16 ounce bottle.
ARMSTRONG QUIET COMFORT PREMIUM UNDERLAYMENT
  • Recommended under all laminate flooring with no attached underlayment (use Armstrong™ Moisture Barrier Sheeting under laminate flooring with attached underlayment).
  • A rubber-like layer over 100% synthetic fiber.
  • Acts as a moisture barrier when the seams are taped together with polyethylene tape. (Refer to Subfloor Requirements for further details).
  • Provides a cushion between the floor and the subfloor and compensates for slight subfloor irregularities.
  • Provides a thermal barrier, reducing the "cold floor" feeling common to floors that are directly bonded to the subfloor.
  • Absorbs underfoot noise and provides greater underfoot comfort.
  • Eliminates the need for a separate vapor barrier.
  • Installed with logo side up.
  • Coverage: 100 sq. ft./roll
ARMSTRONG QUIET COMFORT UNDERLAYMENT
  • Recommended under all laminate flooring with no attached underlayment (use Armstrong Moisture Barrier Sheeting under laminate flooring with attached underlayment).
  • A polyethylene closed-cell foam product.
  • Acts as a moisture barrier when the seams are taped together with polyethylene tape. (Refer to Subfloor Requirements for further details).
  • Provides a cushion between the floor and the subfloor and compensates for slight subfloor irregularities.
  • Provides a thermal barrier, reducing the "cold floor" feeling common to floors that are directly bonded to the subfloor.
  • Eliminates the need for a separate vapor barrier.
  • Installed with the logo side up.
  • Coverage: 100 sq. ft./roll
ARMSTRONG MOISTURE BARRIER SHEETING
  • Recommended under all laminate flooring with attached underlayment when installed over concrete.
  • .005" (.127 mm) polyethylene film
  • Acts as a moisture barrier when seams are taped together with polyethylene tape.
  • Coverage:
    • 30" x 40' roll: 100 sq. ft./roll
    • 60" x 400' roll: 2,000 sq. ft./roll
CARE INSTRUCTIONS
Armstrong™ Laminate Flooring is extremely easy to clean.
  • DO NOT WAX OR POLISH your floor.
  • For everyday cleaning, vacuum with a wand attachment or dry mop.
  • To remove excessive dirt buildup, use Armstrong Hardwood & Laminate Floor Cleaner (S-302) or Bruce® Dura-Luster® No-Wax Floor Cleaner.
  • Before using water, or Armstrong Hardwood & Laminate Floor Cleaner (S-302) or Bruce Dura-Luster No-Wax Floor Cleaner, thoroughly wring out your mop or sponge. An excessive amount of moisture is not necessary.
  • As with any hard-surfaced material, laminate flooring can be slippery when wet. Promptly wipe up spills with a moist sponge or soft cloth.
  • DO NOT CLEAN THIS FLOOR WITH ABRASIVE CLEANSERS, ABRASIVE SCRUBBING PADS, STEEL WOOL, OR SCOURING POWDER.
  • To avoid scratching, use Armstrong Floor Protectors or protective pads under chairs and furniture legs.
  • Use walk-off mats at entryways to collect tracked-in dirt and grit and to absorb excess moisture.
  • Because metal rolling casters can damage the floor, we do not recommend them. If rolling casters are used, we recommend only soft wheels wide enough to support the load.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
Armstrong Laminate Flooring can be installed over most subfloors and existing floors on all grade levels.
 
All substrates must:
  • meet applicable building codes
  • be structurally sound
  • show minimal deflection
  • be dry, clean and flat
Precautions:
  • Armstrong™ Laminate Flooring may be installed in bathrooms following the guidelines outlined in the Bathroom Installation Section.
  • Armstrong Laminate Flooring is not recommended over most carpets or in high-humidity areas where the floor is normally wet - e.g., steam rooms, or saunas.
  • The slope should not exceed 1" in 6' (2.54 cm in 1.83 m)
  • Variations in subfloor flatness should not exceed 3/16" in 10' (4.76 mm in 3.05 m) or 1/8" in 6' (3.17 mm in 1.83 m). Level floors with a suitable cement-based self-leveling underlayment following the manufacturer's recommended guidelines.
  • Radiant heated subfloors should not exceed 85° F (29° C).
Concrete Subfloors
  • Concrete floors must be cured properly and allowed to dry for at least 60 days after the curing process.
  • Concrete floors must not show any signs of moisture or alkali.
  • Use Armstrong Quiet Comfort underlayment for laminate with no attached backing (or Moisture Barrier Sheeting for laminate with attached underlayment), butt the edges together and tape the seams with polyethylene tape.
Test for moisture in concrete prior to installation. Too much moisture can cause significant damage to laminate flooring.
  • Tape 3' x 3' (91 cm x 91 cm) pieces of polyethylene film to the subfloor.
  • After 24 hours, if moisture condensation appears on the film or the concrete appears dark-colored, it is likely excessive moisture is present and a Calcium Chloride test must be run.
  • The maximum acceptable moisture emission level for Armstrong Laminate Flooring installations is 5.0 lb./1000 sq. ft./24 hours (2.26 kg/101.6 m²/24 hours).
Wood Subfloors
  • Wood subfloors must be suspended and have a minimum of 18" (45.7 cm) of well-ventilated crawl space.
  • Regardless of grade level, do not install over wood subfloors applied directly to concrete or on sleepers over concrete.
  • Installation of a polyethylene film vapor barrier such as Armstrong Moisture Barrier Sheeting over the ground in the crawl space is recommended.
  • Use Armstrong Quiet Comfort underlayment for Laminate with no attached backing. No additional underlayment is needed for Laminate with attached backing. The seams do not need to be taped.
Underlayment Boards
  • Armstrong Laminate Flooring can be installed over any wood, cement, or gypsum-based underlayment boards that are installed according to the manufacturer's recommended guidelines.
  • Use Armstrong Quiet Comfort Underlayment for Laminate with no attached backing. No additional underlayment is needed for Laminate with attached backing. The seams do not need to be taped.
Wood Flooring
  • All wood flooring must be dry, level, flat and installed over suspended subfloors.
  • Sand any ridges or uneven portions and repair squeaks.
  • Use Armstrong Quiet Comfort Underlayment for Laminate with no attached backing. No additional underlayment is needed for Laminate with attached backing. The seams do not need to be taped.
  • Install Armstrong Laminate Flooring at a 90° angle to existing wood plank flooring.
  • Wood flooring over concrete must be removed.
Ceramic and Resilient Tile
  • Tile installed over concrete:
    • Use Armstrong Quiet Comfort Underlayment for Laminate with no attached backing (or moisture barrier sheeting for laminate with attached underlayment), butt the edges together and tape the seams with polyethylene tape.
  • Tile installed over wood:
    • Use Armstrong Quiet Comfort Underlayment for Laminate with no attached backing. No additional underlayment is needed for Laminate with attached backing. The seams do not need to be taped.
Vinyl Sheet
  • Vinyl sheet installed over concrete:
    • Use Armstrong Quiet Comfort Underlayment for Laminate with no attached backing (or moisture barrier sheeting for laminate with attached underlayment), butt the edges together and tape the seams with polyethylene tape.
  • Vinyl sheet installed over wood:
    • Use Armstrong Quiet Comfort Underlayment for Laminate with no attached backing. No additional underlayment is needed for Laminate with attached backing. The seams do not need to be taped.
Carpet
  • Fully adhered, maximum 1/4" (6.35 mm) carpet over a suspended wood subfloor is a suitable substrate.
  • All other carpet and any carpet pad must be removed. If the carpet was glued in place, remove all remaining debris and excessive adhesive residue. Do not install laminate over carpet adhered to concrete.
  • Armstrong Quiet Comfort Underlayment is not recommended.
  • Use moisture barrier sheeting over the carpet. The seams do not need to be taped.
ROOM PREPARATION
 
Conditioning
  1. Armstrong™ and Bruce® Laminate floors do not require acclimation.
  2. The room temperature should be at a minimum of 65° F (18° C) for 48 hours before, during, and 48 hours after installation.
  3. During and after installation, the room temperature should not exceed a maximum of 100° F (38° C).
Preparation
  1. Removal of existing wall base, millwork or trim is optional.
  2. Door trims and door jambs must be undercut to allow the floor to move freely. Use a discarded piece of floor and foam underlayment to support the saw blade at the correct height for undercutting.
  3. Sweep the subfloor and remove all dust and debris.
  4. If the drywall is slightly elevated at the floor and wall juncture, create a solid wall surface by fastening a 2" - 3" (5 cm - 7.6 cm) wide facing strip such as 1/4" (6.35 mm) plywood to the wall at the stud location.
  5. New wall base or molding must be installed at the end of the job to cover the 1/4" (6.35 mm) to 1/2" (12.7 mm) expansion zone around the perimeter of the floor.
  6. It may be necessary to plane or cut the bottom of the door to accommodate the change in floor height.
Layout
  • Install parallel to incoming light from any windows or if lighting is not a concern, parallel to the longest wall in the room.
High Moisture Areas
  • It is a good idea to use 100% silicone caulk in areas of rooms where excessive moisture may be present, such as at kitchen sinks, dishwashers and ice makers. See Bathroom Installation section for instructions on Full Bathroom Installations.
Installing Cabinets
  • Install cabinets and then the laminate around the cabinets leaving the 1/4" (6.35 mm) to 1/2" (12.7 mm) expansion zone.
  • If installing cabinets after the laminate has been installed, most or all of the cabinet weight should be supported by the wall mountings. To secure the cabinets to the substrate with screws or nails, drill holes through the laminate 1/2" (12.7 mm) diameter larger than the screw or nail to allow for expansion.
Installing Kitchen Islands
  • The island must be free standing and weight less than 250 lbs. if it is to be installed over the laminate.
  • If the island weighs more than 250 lbs., the laminate is to be installed around the island allowing the normal 1/4" (6.35 mm) to 1/2" (12.7 mm) expansion area around the base of the island.
  • If the laminate has already been installed, and the island must be installed over the laminate, and the island weighs more than the 250 lb. maximum, drill holes through the laminate 1/2" (12.7 mm) diameter larger than the bolts (to allow for expansion) and bolt the island to the subfloor.
LOCK AND FOLD INSTALLATION
 
Getting Started
Always check each board for damage before installing.
  1. Avoid narrow pieces at the finish wall. Measure the distance between the starting wall and the finish wall.
  2. Divide this number by the width of the board.
  3. If the remainder is less than 2 1/2" (6.35 cm), cut off 2 1/2" (6.35 cm) from the width of the first row or to balance the room add the difference to the plank width and divide by two.
  4. Roll out Armstrong™ Quiet Comfort or Armstrong Quiet Comfort Premium underlayment or Moisture Barrier Sheeting along the starting wall, and cut to length. Kitchen and bathroom installations require folding the underlayment up the wall 2" (5 cm). Place additional sections with butt seams as the installation progresses.
  5. To minimize pattern repeats in the floor, always pull from at least three cartons of flooring while installing.
Wall Irregularities
All wall irregularities require cutting the first or last row of boards to fit the contour of the wall.
  1. Use dividers or a spacer turned sideways 1" (2.54 cm) wide to mark the contour.
  2. Cut to shape.
  3. Position the cut piece, using the pull bar to tighten the last piece in place.
  4. Place a spacer between the end of the board and the side wall.
  5. Two tapered spacers can be used as wedges to accommodate irregular walls.
Cutting
  1. A good quality carbide-tipped cutting blade that has been designed for composition and laminate materials such as melamine, coreboard, or other hard, dense, man-made materials is recommended. When extra clean cut edges are required - e.g., custom installations- you may need more elaborate cutting equipment.
  2. When using a hand saw, cut with the decorative side of the board facing up.
  3. When using power saws, the direction of blade must cut into the decorative side of the board to minimize chipping.
  4. Use a square to keep your cut line straight.
  5. Cut the marked piece in another area to keep the sawdust away from the installation site.
Install Underlayments
Cover subfloor with underlayment, Logo side up. If subfloor is concrete or any existing floor over concrete, tape the seams with clear plastic tape.
 
Install First Row
  1. Inspect each piece prior to installation for damaged boards.
  2. Always pull from at least 3 cartons while installing to minimize pattern repeats.
  3. Lay first row of boards with tongue side facing the wall.
  4. If the starting wall is crooked, trace the contour of the wall on the first row of planks and trim as needed.
  5. Use spacers along all sides that butt up against walls to maintain 1/4" (6.35 mm) to 1/2" (12.7 mm) expansion zone.
  6. Lay pieces from left to right. Lock the end joints by installing at an angle to the previous board.
  7. When measuring the last piece in the row, subtract 1/4" (6.35 mm) from the end of the board to maintain expansion zone.
  8. Cut decorative side up if using a hand saw or decorative side down if using a power saw to minimize chipping.
  9. If the cut-off piece from the first row is 8" (20.32 mm) or longer, use it to start the second row. If it less than 8" (20.32 mm), cut a full board in half and use that.
Install Remaining Rows
  1. Continue laying boards, one row at a time and staggering the end joints.
  2. Install the long end of the first board in the second row at an angle to the board in the first row. Press flat to subfloor to lock into place.
  3. Angle the long end of the next board in the second row to lock into the first row.
  4. Follow the order described above to continue laying the boards in the second and additional rows.
  5. Use a pull bar if necessary to tighten joints.
Installing Under a Door Jamb or Toe Kick
Installation of locking laminate through a door jamb or under a toe kick requires the lip of the groove to be reduced in size.
  1. Using a small plane or utility knife, plane or shave off 75% of the ledge of the groove.
  2. Be careful not to trim too much. Excessive reduction can weaken the joint.
  3. After the groove ledge has been trimmed, place the board in position laterally and lightly pull the board into place using the pull bar.
  4. Sometimes, more than one passing may be necessary in order to trim the ledge of the groove to the correct height.
  5. Joint should be tight with no movement; however a thin, 3/32"
Finishing the Installation
  1. Remove spacers and install molding pieces. (See Coordinated Transitions and Molding Pieces).
  2. Always predrill transitions or moldings prior to nailing. To allow the floating floor to move freely, do not fasten the trim to the laminate flooring.
  3. For everyday cleaning, vacuum or damp mop. To remove excessive dirt buildup, use Armstrong™ Hardwood & Laminate Floor Cleaner (S-302) or Bruce® Dura-Luster® No-Wax Floor Cleaner.
  4. DO NOT WAX OR POLISH your floor.
FULL BATHROOM INSTALLATION RECOMMENDATIONS FOR LOCKING LAMINATE
 
Prolonged exposure to water could damage the laminate flooring. Installation recommendations should be closely followed to prevent water from contacting the core material of the flooring.
  1. Full bathroom installations require folding the underlayment up the wall 2" (5 cm). Cut the underlayment even with the top of the flooring after installation.
  2. All joints must be properly glued. Apply a thin, continuous 3/32" (2.4 cm) bead of glue to the top of the tongue ONLY.
  3. A thin, continuous bead of glue must ooze to the surface as the laminate pieces are locked together. Proper gluing provides both strength and moisture resistance to the joint. Wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth.
  4. Joint integrity is integral to moisture resistance. Avoid excessive joint flexing during installation.
  5. Allow the installation to dry overnight before using the bathroom.
  6. All perimeter expansion zones must be completely filled with 100% silicone caulk following the manufacturer's recommendations. When applying caulk, it is helpful to first apply a strip of masking tape parallel to and approximately 1/32" (.79 mm) from the edge of the laminate. Then fill the expansion zone with caulk, remove the excess with a plastic scraper or putty knife, and remove the tape.
  7. Molding may be used along a straight tub or shower base. The expansion zone should be filled with 100% silicone caulk and the molding seated in the caulk while it is still wet. The joint between the molding and the tub or shower base should also be caulked. If molding is not an option, a normal 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone may be used at the tub and then completely filled with 100% silicone caulk.
  8. The toilet should be removed before installing the laminate flooring. Allow a 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone between the laminate flooring edge and the toilet flange. Completely seal the zone with 100% silicone caulk.
  9. Use a T-Molding to separate a bathroom installation from any surrounding rooms with laminate flooring.
  10. As with any hard-surfaced material, laminate flooring can be slippery when wet.
COORDINATED TRANSITIONS AND MOLDING PIECES
 
Armstrong offers specially designed Quarter-Round Molding, T-Molding, Multi-Purpose Reducer, Reducer Strip, Flush Stairnosing, Baby Threshold, Wall Base and Overlap Stepnosing to complete the floor installation.
  • Attach any of these pieces with nails (6d finish nails) or construction adhesive. When using construction adhesive, weigh down the transition strip evenly to ensure proper contact with the subfloor. Do not use an excessive amount of construction adhesive that could ooze out and fill the expansion zone.
  • To allow the floating floor to move freely, never fasten the transition pieces to the laminate flooring.
  • Keep the placement of the transition strip such that the 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion around the perimeter is maintained.
  • When installing over a radiant heated floor, always use construction adhesive to attach transition pieces.
  • Always predrill any of these pieces with the appropriate size drill bit to avoid cracking or splitting the strip.
  • To prevent wood core from being exposed, add a "return" to end of molding at outside corners; for inside corners miter at a 45° angle if corner is square or use a cope saw if corner is not square.
The Track System
The track system is an optional installation method to use with certain moldings. See specific moldings for further detailed installation instructions.
  1. Screw or nail the track to the subfloor
  2. Snap in molding
Quarter-Round Moldings
Coordinate with floor and provide the perfect finishing touch.
  1. Nail the molding to the wall, not the floor.
  2. Do not force the trim against the floor.
  3. The floating floor must move freely.
T-Moldings
Must be used in areas where the room is larger than 80' (24.38 mm) in plank length or wider than 52' (15.85 mm) in board width. Also use where the flooring continues through a doorway or passageway into another room.
 
If Installing Without The Track System:
  1. Screw or nail a temporary spacer block 1/2" (12.7 mm) wide and a minimum of 1/2" (12.7 mm) high to the subfloor.
  2. Install the laminate floor up to the spacer block using Armstrong™ spacers to obtain a 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone.
  3. Leave the spacer block and spacers in place, and complete the entire floor installation.
  4. Remove the spacer block and spacers.
  5. Install the T-Molding.
If Installing Using The Track System:
  1. Install the track system FIRST.
  2. Install the laminate floor up to the track system using Armstrong spacers to obtain 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone.
  3. Snap in T-Molding.
Multi-Purpose Reducer
Provides a smooth transition from your Laminate floor to another type of flooring of a lower height. Also finishes the space where Laminate flooring ends against a vertical surface and where quarter round cannot be used.
 
If Installing Without The Track System:
  1. Screw or nail a temporary spacer block 1 1/4" (3.18 cm) wide and a minimum of 1/2" (12.7 mm) high to the subfloor with one side located where the Multi-Purpose Reducer will eventually be located.
  2. Install the Laminate floor up to the other side of the spacer block using Armstrong Spacers to obtain a 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone.
  3. Remove the spacer block and spacers.
  4. Install the Multi-Purpose Reducer.
If Installing Using The Track System:
  1. Install the Track System FIRST.
  2. Install the Track System so that the outside edge of the metal Track is 5/8" (15.88 mm) away from where the Multi-Purpose Reducer nose will eventually be located.
  3. Install the Laminate floor up to the Track System using Armstrong™ Spacers to obtain a 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone.
  4. Snap the Multi-Purpose Reducer into the Track System.
Reducer Strips
Use when going from Armstrong Laminate Flooring to other flooring materials, particularly those of a lesser height.
 
If Installing Without The Track System:
  1. Screw or nail a temporary spacer block 1 1/4" (3.175 cm) wide and a minimum of 1/2" (12.7 mm) high to the subfloor with one side located where the Reducer strip nose will eventually be located.
  2. Install the laminate floor up to the other side of the spacer block using Armstrong spacers to obtain a 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone.
  3. Remove the spacer block and spacers.
  4. Install the Reducer strip.
If Installing Using The Track System:
  1. Install the track system FIRST.
  2. Install the track system so that the outside edge of the metal track is 5/8" (15.88 mm) away from where the Reducer strip nose will eventually be located.
  3. Install the laminate floor up to the track system using Armstrong spacers to obtain a 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone.
  4. Snap the Reducer strip into the track system.
Baby Threshold (only available in some colors)
Use when laminate flooring ends against a vertical surface and where quarter round or wall base cannot be used - e.g., in front of a sliding glass door or under a toe kick. Additionally, the finished edge to this piece makes it an ideal fit against carpet.
 
If Installing Without The Track System:
  1. Screw or nail a temporary spacer block that is 3/4" (19.05 mm) wide and a minimum of 1/2" (12.7 mm) high to the subfloor with one side located against the vertical surface of adjacent flooring.
  2. Install the laminate floor up to the spacer block using spacers to obtain 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone.
  3. Remove the spacer block and spacers.
  4. Install the Baby Threshold
If Installing Using The Track System:
  1. Install the track system FIRST.
  2. Install the track system so that the outside edge of the track is 3/16" (4.76 mm) away from vertical surface or adjacent flooring.
  3. Install the laminate floor up to the track system using Armstrong spacers to obtain a 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone.
  4. Snap Baby Threshold into the track system.
Wall Base (only available in some colors)
Provides customized finish along walls.
  1. Nail the molding to the wall, not the floor.
  2. Do not force the trim against the floor.
  3. The floating floor must move freely.
Overlap Stepnose
Use where laminate flooring meets a step down or landing. Install using the Track System. Do not use on individual stair treads. See following directions for Flush Stairnose Installations.
  1. Install the track system FIRST.
  2. Install the track system so that the outside edge of the track is 5/8" (15.88 mm) away from the edge of the stepdown.
  3. Install the laminate floor up to the track system using Armstrong spacers to obtain 1/4" (6.35 mm) expansion zone.
  4. Measure and cut stepnose to length.
  5. Predrill holes in the stepnose for finish nails.
  6. Adhere the stepnose to the subfloor using a high quality, construction adhesive.
  7. Apply a 3/16" (4.76 mm) bead of adhesive in a serpentine pattern to the back of the stepnose. Carefully read cautions on container and follow the manufacturer's recommended instructions on the adhesive label.
  8. Snap the stepnose into the track and anchor the stepnose with finish nails.
  9. DO NOT USE THE STEPNOSE ON INDIVIDUAL STAIR TREADS.
  10. Always make sure to use mechanic (nail) and adhesive (glue) fasteners to secure stepnose.
 
FLUSH STAIRNOSE INSTALLATION FOR STAIR TREADS AND RISERS
The installation of laminate flooring on stairs is a fully adhered system. Under no circumstances should foam underlayment be placed on stair steps or risers. This will result in an unsafe condition. Do not use overlap stepnose molding on individual stair treads.
 
Tool List
  • Table Saw or Miter Saw
  • 10" (25.4 cm) 60 or 80 Tooth Carbide Tipped ATB or Triple Chip Saw Blade
  • Power Drill
  • Hammer
  • 6d Finish Nails
  • Construction Adhesive
Preparation of Stair Treads
Treads and risers should be structurally sound, flat, dry, clean, smooth and free from paint, varnish, wax, oils, solvents, and other foreign matter. Cut off any existing bullnose flush with the riser of the stair.
 
Installation
  1. Beginning at the bottom riser, measure and cut a piece of laminate to fit flush with the top of the existing stair tread. If the laminate has an attached fabric, it must be removed.
  2. Glue in place by applying a 3" (7.6 cm) serpentine bead of construction adhesive to the back of the flooring.
  3. Press in place.
  4. Measure and cut stair nose to length.
  5. Dry fit the stair nose to the edge of the first tread with the molding nose overlapping the laminate piece on the riser below, and measure the width from the edge of the stairnose to the next riser.
  6. Measure and cut to width and length another piece of laminate for the stair tread. If the laminate has an attached fabric, it must be removed.
  7. Apply construction adhesive to the tread of the existing stair and spread evenly using a 1/16" x 1/16" x 1/16" (1.59 mm x 1.59 mm x 1.59 mm) square-notch trowel.
  8. Place the cut piece of flooring into the adhesive with the cut edge to the riser of the next step.
  9. Leave the factory tongue exposed.
  10. Apply a bead of construction adhesive in a 3" (7.6 cm) serpentine pattern to the back of the cut piece of stairnose.
  11. Apply a bead of laminate glue to the edge of the tongue of the installed flooring and to the bottom lip of the groove of the stairnose. (Locking laminate requires bead of glue on top of tongue only.)
  12. Push pieces together until joint is tight and remove excess glue.
  13. On wood subfloors, drill holes in the installed stairnose and anchor with 6d finish nails.
  14. Set nails using a nail punch. Fill holes with a repair stick.
  15. Repeat steps 1 - 14 until installation is complete.
  16. Allow 24 hours curing time before exposing stairs to traffic.
SPECIAL CUTTING PROCEDURES
Irregular-Shaped Pieces
Make a paper pattern for irregular-shaped pieces, and transfer the pattern to the piece to be cut.
 
Holes for Pipes
  1. On the end of the piece, measure and drill holes that are 1/2" (12.7 mm) larger in diameter than the pipes.
  2. Cut across the piece through the center of the holes.
  3. Glue the edge of the end piece.
  4. Use the pull bar to put the piece in place.
  5. Use spacers as wedges to hold in place.
  6. On the long side of the piece, mark and drill holes that are 1/2" (12.7 mm) larger diameter than the pipes.
  7. Cut in from the edge at a 45° angle towards the holes in the piece.
  8. Apply glue to the cut edges.
  9. Use the pull bar to put the piece in place.
  10. Use spacers as wedges to hold in place.
Custom Cutting
Starting Point Modifications:
When installing a custom floor, you may find starting the floor layout from the longest wall is not necessary. In many custom layouts, it may work to your advantage to start from the middle and work out towards the wall. This technique works well for borders and insets. To assist in the installation, a temporary starting block can be attached to the subfloor. This starting block acts much like the usual starting wall and gives you something to tap against during the installation. Once you have reached the opposite wall, the temporary starting block can be removed and the installation completed.
 
Routing and the Use of Splines:
Many custom installations require you cut the board to achieve a desired visual effect. If these cut pieces will be installed in the field of the floor, they will have to be routed. Use a router bit to modify the piece so it can accept the tongue of the next piece or be fitted with a spline. It is critical during the routing process that the groove being cut is properly lined up to match the next piece. This will eliminate any ledging that might occur if the router bit is too high or low. Also, if the cut is exposed and not hidden from view, make sure the cut is as true and straight as possible.
 
How to Install Borders or Insets:
To create a simple border, start by determining the "visual center" of the room. Then, working out from that point, measure in whole width or length units of the piece you plan to install — a 7 1/2" x 50 5/8" (19.05 cm x 128.59 cm) Board, a 15" x 15" (38.1 cm x 38.1 cm) Square or a 15" x 25 5/16" (38.1 cm x 64.29 cm) Block. Measure until you reach a suitable place for the border. Dry-fit the field and border to help arrange the layout. The majority of cuts should fall at the perimeter of the floor and be hidden by the Wall Base or Quarter Round. To install this type of floor layout, you could either start at the longest wall, if all the cut pieces have been calculated, or from the start of the border row. To start from the border, use a 2 x 4 as a straightedge, and fasten it to the floor to use as a starting wall. Once the field and border have been installed, you can go back and fill out the perimeter of the floor.

 

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